Thread: Paint gun question?

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I just got a binks model 18 and a badger 400 touch up to use for painting.I am wondering what paints these work well with and what these weapons were designed to do ?I am looking these up on the internet too but real world opinoins a from hands on users is much much better !!!!

Binks 18 is an older model gun that was used for Synthetic, and Acrylic Enamels, and high solid primers. It may be alright for the new High solid clears , but those guns requier 50-65 PSI at the gun to get good atomization of the paint. It will waste alot of paint because these guns have very bad transfer of product. and overspray is a big problem too.


You would be better off just using it for primer and getting a HVLP top loader for spraying color.

SprayTech

thnx for the info spraytech .can i use a cheap hvlp gun if i am not sprayin very much maybe 1 or 2 cars every 4 or 5 years ?I have seen a few around 120 160 dollars.are these guns bad paint guns or are they cheap because they wear quickly and have lots o plastic? whats a good consumer gun that wont give a bad paint job i.e spray tiger stipes ,orange peel and splatter all over the place .and thnx again fer all yer help.

A cheaper HVLP will work just fine , beings your not using it everyday for a living.
Try finding one with a 1.5-1.8 needle and an air cap that will really brake up the paint.
It will serve you well.
My helper at work uses a cheap Harbor Freight HVLP gun for just edging parts and it sprays decent.

and use your Binks for the High build primers, as it will really lay it on

Originally posted by shawnlee28
whats a good consumer gun that wont give a bad paint job i.e spray tiger stipes ,orange peel and splatter all over the place .and thnx again fer all yer help.

And if you've read some of Spray's other posts you'd have learned that these problems are more likely operator caused..............That being said, junk equipment makes it harder to learn.

Thnx again and i was gunna ask the question about the high build primer ... hehe u already answered me this may be my first time but all the runs will be put on with the right eqipment and the right steps

If you are getting runs , its because a few things.
You have the material valve on the gun open to much, applying it to slow, to small of fan pattern,
overlapping you pattern to tight, low air pressure.

Spraying color isnt as easy as the pros make it out to be ...LOL

Base Coat / Clear Coat has made spraying paint alot easier as the base doesnt have to be layed real smooth as the clear is what gives it gloss, protection and smoothness.

Most high build clears today arent made to lay smooth as glass as they have developed them to have some orange peal as they found out that it helps cut down on sun fade.
The peal acts like a prizm and the UV rays might go in one direction but come out another direction.
a real slick paint job that stays out in the elements will fade faster because the UV rays go in and out at the same degee , this causing sun fade.

Supposedly PPG spent 100's of millions of dollars studying and finding this all out .

SprayTech

I am finding out theres a hole lot more to a good paint job than what it seems!I have dupont chrome free etching primer then I am going to use high build primer then i want to use por 15s hardnose paint its a 2 part hardner activator paint .This would be a good paint also for the binks gun? or do they make hvlp high solid guns?looks to be a high solids paint.And thnx for helpin this porboy have sumthin nice

Hey no problem, as thats what this site is for , helping others out and trying to give information that wont cost you down the line.

Yes the Binks would spray that POR 15 , but it might not be worth much afterwords , as that stuff sticks like glue to everything including you !
I highly reccomend buying a cheap paint suit, a paint head sock, and make DAMN sure you buy a 3m desposable charcoal respirator( comes in small , med. & large ) before sparying anything !!!!! its all very harmfull stuff !!!!oh and some cheap laytex gloves, you will thank me for this advice ...LOL

I would tear it down and clean it real well after spraying that stuff.
Like unscrew air cap, unscrew the materal valve and pull needle out from the back of gun( i think you might have to unscrew the trigger and drop it off to pull out needle on this model) , then unscrew the fluid nozzle ( thats the piece just behind the air cap ) and then unscrew the gun from cup , and soak it in some thinner, and get a gun cleaning kit ( not real expensive) and clean that sucker GOOD !!!!!

Just make sure its mixed like the instructions say( dont vary from them ) and use a fairly wide pattern on your gun , and then over lap each coat 50% .
Follow the curvature of the body from rockers up !Keep the gun back 8-10 inches from the panels being sprayed. ( pattern should be about 8-12 inches wide depending on the gun)
My Iwatta LVLP gun that i use for clear has a 14" pattern.
When you buy these products , ask for P-sheets as they give alot of insight on the products you just purchased. Mixture, products they are compatiable with ..ect........

Spraytech
P.S. you might buy a metal granuation(spelling?) stir stick, it makes it alot easier to mix paint .It can be cleaned and used forever as I have 5 that i have had for 6 years from PPG.

For added emphasis when DW says clean, he means CLEAN! A sloppy job will lead to spray pattern problems that end up giving you fits with all the troubles you mentioned. As an infrequent painter I find it very usefull to spend extra time with gun setup and test sprays on a large sheet of cardboard or plywood before taking gun to the vehicle. If the pattern isn't right, or the fluid volume is off, air pressure at the gun too high/low, it's better to spend time and material on a board rather than on the car and then having a REAL mess to clean up/repair/undo. Pros like DW can set the gun in their sleep for whatever material or conditions they face, that's what doing it all day, every day prepares you for. But a weekend warrior needs to be more thoughtful.

Thnx for all the advice I might just be ready to properly learn now!!Theres no subsitute hands on thats why i started with a common truck.It will all be easy after makin a old work truck pretty lol.I think this thing wasnt straight from the factory exsposed spot welds and different gapped body lines but i am armed with some tips and technichs now!! will post more pics soon .Lots of work to get to bare metal seems a shame to paint it lol (66 chevy delorian work truck hehe) bare metals a little more shiny than stainless, might get a ticket if u could see the plates from the glare!.../... Thnx all!