Thread: Paint Gun Tips

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I thought this might help a few of you guys and girls that need some insight on paint guns.

I did some reading up on some of all this and came up with this .

Spray Gun tips

You may not need a new paint gun to get the most from your current gun to create a great paint job........ but it does give you a good reason to buy MORE tools !!!!

Every one wants to turn out the best paint job possiable and whats the key to a successful job?

It takes the correct spray gun for an outstanding paint job.
But a spray gun is like any other tool, it has to be matched to the job .
( and not to mention that its almost impossable with out proper surface preparation !

How many guns do you need?
whether the gun is several years old or brand new , you have to consider what material your spraying to choose the correct spray gun.
since the advent of VOC laws the material you spray has changed too,so its evenmore critical to choose spray gun based on what you’ll spray with it .
There are guns designed for primers and other heavy bodied materials.
many painter have several guns for applying Primers and surfacers, one for base coats, one for clearcoats.
If you can afford 3 guns thats great but if not I will try and give you some information on maybe choosing one that will work for all 3 .

Choosing Nozzle setups
You will actually achieve the best results by refering to the manufacturers technical data sheets, for the particular product your spraying.
They have spent many hours and money testing their products and found the best Needle / nozzle combination.

A general rule of thumb is :
* Heavy Bodied primers and primer surfacers work best when you use a fluid nozzle size of 1.7-2.2
*Basecoats should be sprayed with a 1.4-1.6 fluid nozzle
*Clearcoats should use a 1.3-1.7 fluid nozzle
*Sealers and single stage uerathanes should be sprayed with a 1.4-1.6 fluid nozzle.
This is a general rule but some guys go against the rules and can still get out -standing jobs with different sizes , but they know their gun and product.

The higher solids clearcoats and single stage uerathanes , you should go down in size so the paint gets broken into smaller particles to get a smoother finish.
Some gun manufacturers go againt the norm , so make sure you check your gun manufacturers settings also .

Primer surfacers require a much larger fluid nozzle as they are thick in body so bigger size is need for correct application, as too small of fluid nozzle will give you a dry application and will have poor adhesion when paint is applied.

Air Errors
Looking at your Air compressor is another factor to look into.
You ask what this has to do with painting?
You may not have air to run that new paint gun.
You say my compressor puts out 150PSI how much air do I need?
the fact is PSI doesnt matter.
The air consumption of a paint gun is measured in CFM.
Air requirements for a paint gun can range from 2-3 CFM for a small touch-up gun, to to as much as 18 CFM for some Gravity-feed or Siphon feed guns.
the average is 12 for most of the populr brands of guns.
Check the out put for most 5 -hp compressors and its around 14 CFM max.
Even though you gun only uses 30psi of air , it may exceed the CFM capasity or your compressor.
Other considerations are your hose and air fittings, as these can hamper the spraying of paint.
The minimum air hose should be 3/8 ths in. ID air hose and High-flow air fittings and couplers.
This dramitacally will improve air flow and efficiency.

Clean UP
This is key !!!
Most gun manufacturers come with a cleaning kit.
You should remove the air cap and fluid nozzle as well as the needle and throughly clean them. Plus flush the gun body and inside fluid passages well.
Nothing is worse then having a chunck of dried color or clear end up in your fresh paint job !
Never clean your air cap, fluid nozzle or needle with a knife paper clip, or any other hard metal object as these will damage them.

Create a Uniform Pattern
Gun Manufacturers suggest you use a uniform pattern overlap ( Thats the next gun pass over each other )when spraying.
It used to be 50% but now days the industery suggests a lager overlap 75%, this makes for coverage in fewer coats , a more even application and better durabilitythrough consistant mil, build.
Consistant gun passes will reduce or eliminate stripes and mottling as well.
Gun Technique is whats separates the great painters from the average.
Adjusting the gun each time, testing the pattern, keeping a consistant distance, maintaining the exact overlap and remaining perfectly parallel to the surface make for great paint jobs. They even take less time. If you know your overlap and spray distance are consistant, you know your coating thickness is too. You will reach hiding and mininum mil. build quicker if you casually wave the gun at the panel again and again.

Hope this will help some of you guys wanting to try your hand at painting your rod !


SprayTech

EXCELLENT DW!!!

How about a little discussion on advantages/disadvantages; gravity, siphon, and pressure guns. And maybe some thoughts on hvlp, lvlp, and "regular" (or should that be "old fashioned"?).

excellent Idea Bob , but hey that Gun Tips I wrote gave me an Ice cream head ache ..LOL

I will look into all my PPG school stuff and all the other stuff I have collected through the years and try and come up with a post on the different type guns.

If you think I missed anything in the Gun TIPS , feel free to add to it .
SprayTech ( DW )

Hey, Tech,

I've got a Finisline HVLP with a 1.8 tip that I plan to use for a primer gun. I've painted bc/cc (S-W Ultra 7000) with it, and got pretty good results. I'm using Transtar 6541 KWIK FILL polyester primer on a glass body. It recommends a 1.6 - 1.8 tip, so I'm thinking it'll work OK for primer. Any comment?

However, I want to move up to a better finish gun. I've been looking at the DeVilbiss GTI Millennium, the Binks M1-G, and the new 3M Paint Preparation System HVLP. Any advice? Which would you pick - or do you have another recommendation?

Henry,
I am not real up the guns you mentioned as , here in Kansas , Satas , Iwattas , Accusprays, are real popular.............It kind of depends where you are as to the popularity on guns and depends on what the jobbers sell too.
I still have like 6 Old Siphon feed Develblis guns, and they were the best in their day, but they kind of dropped the ball years ago when HVLPs came out and I wanted to move to using a HVLP top loader they didnt have one out as yet. So I went to the Mattson , accusprays and Iwattas.

They all should work good as most guns today are excellent.
I do have a problem with Sharp guns as they dont seem to spray decent in my oppinion, I have 2 colbalts and they were junk right out of the box....LOL
I just let my helper use them for primer and edging parts .
SprayTech

Kansas? I just left Overland Park in 2002 - chasing a job which left me in Virginia Beach. Ocean or not, I still prefer OP.

Tornadoes are preferable to hurricanes, and the traffic out here . . . . jeez.

Thanks for the info on the spray tips, though.

Originally posted by SprayTech
I have 2 colbalts and they were junk right out of the box....LOL
SprayTech

Yeah, but they were such a nice wooden box!!
Got sumptin' gainst them thar Canuck guns??


Sold the one I had on ebay a couple years ago. Best thing I ever did with it!

BTW, agree with ya on the Sharpe stuff.

I'd like to know more about painting so this was very helpful thank you! How much would a decent spray gun cost me?

Love those blend of colors together,guess that blackpearl base gives it that great look. Not to mention lots and lots of metal prep.


~ Vegas ~

This is good stuff. I am starting to look at experimenting with painting. Beats people trying to use paint brushes. I am planning on practising on my bar fridge, ie small fridge has flat surfaces, no big deal if I get it wrong. Any links to sites that have good info please post. Spraytech, love the colour you have chosen for your rod.

Originally posted by Meag
I'd like to know more about painting so this was very helpful thank you! How much would a decent spray gun cost me?

The guns i use today are 350+
I have had my accuspray for 14 years and sees a ton of paint blown through it everyday.
I will replace the Air Cap , needle , and fluid nozzle once every year, as they get wore out.The needle is composit and I replace it every 3 months. Its set up as a 1.6 and will spray base and clear equally well !
My clear gun is an Anest Iwata LVLP top loader also and will lay clear smooth, but man it will hose it on too
Accuspray
Anest Iwata
Mattsonspray
Sata
DiVilbiss
Binks
Walcom GEO
all make great guns.
Do a google search on these guns and read up on them as well.
Not every gun will work for everyone as they all apply paint different, meaning : Some flat out Hose the color on and others Skimp on appling paint.
I have an advantage as I can Demo about any gun out there as my jobber gives me this oppertunity.
I highly Reccomend a Top Loader HVLP Gravity gun as the paint today was designed to be sprayed with these type guns, due to the VOC laws.
The paint transfer is where your savings are due to minium overspray ! More paint goes on car then in the air like the guns of yesteryear.
I will mention that the GEO , Iwatta , are real thin , small bodied guns , well balanced, and easy on the arm , as a loaded Liter cup full of paint or clear can get rather heavy after 6-7 times around the car ....LOL
SprayTech

Originally posted by Henry Rifle
Hey, Tech,


However, I want to move up to a better finish gun. I've been looking at the DeVilbiss GTI Millennium, the Binks M1-G, and the new 3M Paint Preparation System HVLP. Any advice? Which would you pick - or do you have another recommendation?

I just did a google search on the 3M HVLP , as I didnt know they had their system out as yet , I knew they were in development.
I do use their desposable cup liner system and really like it alot.
I will see if I can get ahold of one from my jobber and get a demo on one and put it through its paces , and give you my thoughts on this gun.

Do you want it for base coat only?
Or do you plan to spray base and clear with this new gun ?

SprayTech

This is very helpfull!!! Thanks.

Tech,

I'm going to do basecoat and clearcoat. I already have a HVLP primer gun.

I went and looked at the Iwata LPH400-144LV w/ 1.4 tip. I like the looks of the specs.

A friend of mine in Omaha has the new 3M, and he loves it.

Henry ,
I love my Iwata LVLP top loader, man it lays clear out nice, and has a 12 -14 " spray pattern , I over lap around 75% and hold gun about 8-11" from panels .
I mentioned on another post of 300's as I use PPG's Global clear line, and sprays it real nice.
Only thing it took me around 5 front end spot jobs to get my gun set how I like it , that thing will flat hose some clear alright, and it will sip it if you set it that way too but I am a hoser !!
When I bought it , that Iwata was under 400 bucks with the liter aluminum cup, you know and I forget just what set up I got. I'll have to look Monday.

SprayTech