Thread: Spraytech! i need ur advice!!!

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hey spraytech, i know you're very knowledgeable in the area of paint and guns..so i was wondering ur opinion of these


http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTN-19220.html

let me know what you think as far as quality..or w/e input you have.
thanks for your time.

Sorry i havent been around much, but this place loads so slow it took 3 minutes just to get to this re-ply area......

Well I looked at the site and they look like Sata copys ( which are good guns).

If your only going to use it for color and clear applications I would go with Gun B with the 1.4 nozzle. This should be a good gun for Base Coat/Clear Coat.
It will spray the thicker primers but not in the correct Mill thickness, but it will work if this is going to be your only gun purchase.

Spray

Hey, Tech . . . ya get all 3 for a C-note. No need to pick & choose.

WOW I Didnt even seee that, then thats a heck of a deal then.

americanpower88, good find. Spray Tech what do you think on these guns? I may buy em too if they are good. I wan't to paint up some things before I do my car like my golf cart and some dually fender wells on my truck but I wan't a nice gun that will spray really good. Also I was looking at a gun called Finex by Iwata, any info on that?

Do you think those guns will shoot metallic and pearl colors nicely?

That is such a good deal, I might have to go down on it myself. Of course, I am cheap enough that I will try to get only one because I am interested in spraying only primer. What nozzles and what not would I need for spraying an epoxy primer like Omni Gold and an acrylic urethane surfacer which is extremely thick. I have a cheap paint gun now, but it's the wrong nozzle for the urethane, I think it sprays too fine. It leaves a dust on all of hte areas I haven't painted yet because the spray dries in the air. This is what I believe to be the cause of a few adhesion problems I've had in some corners. It also has lots of pits that go all of the way through to the primer on the underside (not fisheyes). I also believe this is a result of the paint drying in air. I've even tried spraying without catylist. Finally, it's a siphon feed gun and has trouble picking up such a viscous paint. What do you recommend?

These guns appear to be fairly nice, The 1.7 should spray heaver bodied materials. Usually 1.7-2.0 is what they reccomend for High Solids Primers.

FMX I am not familuar with the finex Iwata gun , but I think its their small touch up gun for spraying small areas and doing light paint work, ( dont hold me to that though)

I got to demo the new 3M paint gun and all I can say is WOW, they did an excellent job on the design ! This gun will make alot of bad painters good, it really lays out base metallic and pearls very nice. It doesnt leave a hard overspray edge when spraying spot jobs when blending out, leaves a smooth soft edge. I would buy one but I have so many now I dont use all the ones I have now ........LOL

Oh by the way they are going for $420- $480 dollars. If you want a gun that will really help on laying down a nice job, i would highly reccomend the 3M gun in a 1.3-1.5 for an all around base/clear/sindle stage gun.

Spray

Thanks Spray. I may go with this 4 pc set and also check out the 3M gun. I don't know much about painting at all since in my collision and auto body class we haven't gotten into the painting process much. Do you know of any good books that would help me a lot on painting? I know a bit on air brushing but not too much at all on painting things like cars. Before I paint my car I am of course going to practice a ton like on my golf cart, some sheet metal, truck fenders, etc because I am picky on paint jobs on cars like seeing drips or orange peel or anything.

FMX,
I dont know of any books on painting cars , but if you are in auto body & paint classes , your teacher will show you the correct ways to go about making a quality paint job. Its not something you learn overnight, it comes with doing it right by hand first , because if you cant do it right by hand you will never do it with air tools !!

Lots of gun time will also make you a good painter, learning good gun control is most of laying a nice job.

Prep work is 95% of the job , if its not right then it will never look right.

Spray

Spray, what do you mean learning to do it by hand first? Sorry if that is a dumb question but I am not quite catching what you mean.

All body plastic work done with hand blocks, all block sanding done with an assortment of blocks.
That means NO air tools, because if you dont have the Knack getting right by hand , Air tools will never work for you, all air tools will do is cost you in filler and primer because you cut too much off and have to keep re-doing it .

I have had to work behind a ton of crappy body men in my time, hell they thought they were good but after i showed them how shitty their plastic work was after blocking half the primer off because of high spots, I usually tell them my wife can do better then they could just for how much she has watched me in my garage.....!

Spray

Ok I see what you mean. Well I know how to use a hammer and dollie and use different dollies the correct way, know how to block out everything instead of using all the DA's etc. I am going to be using a DA to get the old paint off and then sanding the rest when the body filler and all is done which I won't use much of and then will block sand everything by hand. Do you think 220 grit would be good for the last sand to bare metal? And tips on this would be greatly appreciated man. There are two teachers at my school that do the collision classes and one has or had his own shop and the other one was some professional that did hot rods and a ton of bikes too and was in a ton of mags but each teacher does things differently so they both tell me something different and would like other peoples oppinions.
Thanks a lot Spray!

FMX,
Its a good thing to have 2 teachers teaching 2 types of techniques .

I had one hell of a teacher , but as I went off into the field and was a helper for several painters for a few years and seen how they did stuff and wanted me to do it , I picked up alot of great things that helped mould me into the painter I am today. I took a few things from every guy that made my job Cleaner , faster, and more effecient. I learned how not to waste any motion.
Not to brag but I make my job look so easy people cant believe I can Prep and paint so fast. But after 30 years I would hope so.
I Have had the pleasure to teach several helpers myself and they are now painting for very good shops and making good money .

One thing is to learn a good paint product and learn it well, I have been a PPG painter all my carrear, I know the ins and outs of DBU/DBC , I only change when a better sealer or a more compliant clear comes out on the market. I have never been a painter that has to try every new thing that comes down the pipe. I think thats why I never have any paint problems, when I do Its usually me pushing it to the limits is when failure comes in .


220 is fine for going to bare metal with a DA, it cuts down on having to load up the primer to fill scratches. The best advice I can give you on using a DA is NEVER run it on edge as it leaves half moon gouges and are hard to get out ( I know it cuts faster but the end results are noit good, run it flat and on a med speed as a higher speed just rips and heats the cutting surface off the sand paper.

Have fun learning FMX , and good luck
Spray

Thanks a lot Spray. That will be good for me right now to mess with. I may have some more questions for you when I get to the primering process if you don't mind but for now I have enough work to keep me busy for months. heh.