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04-12-2004 08:21 PM #16
Originally posted by pro70z28
A fellow snipper, Kewl.Yeah i'm not proud of it but if you dont do it then someone else is surely gonna snag what you want.
Just a few days ago i sniped me a detroit tigers home jersey with about 9 seconds left......i use a stop watch....yeah i know...i cheatSomewhere out on Woordward ave. cruzin!
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04-12-2004 08:32 PM #17
Originally posted by BlownGoat
Yeah i'm not proud of it but if you dont do it then someone else is surely gonna snag what you want.
Just a few days ago i sniped me a detroit tigers home jersey with about 9 seconds left......i use a stop watch....yeah i know...i cheat"PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
"LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.
John 3:16
>>>>>>
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04-13-2004 04:25 AM #18
hahaha.. i now know why i get outbid the last couple seconds.... haha.. thnaks guys lol
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04-15-2004 08:02 AM #19
hmm.. i put a wannted ad up at my work.. for a 350 motor.. and i got a couple replies.. but they are completely built motors.. and they want liek 2,000 dollars.. but they are completely built
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04-20-2004 07:41 PM #20
Well... I finally got a 350.. found it in the paper. Its a GM LG 5.7 bored.030 over.. i got it for 150 bucks. 2 bolt mains, i was wondering where i find the casting number at. Also i was wonderin if you guys could give me a couple tips on buliding the motor.. since i am new to all this. I would greatly appreciate it!
-Steve
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04-20-2004 07:50 PM #21
I've got a 2 bolt 350 casting number 3970010 that I'd be willing to sell you. It's bored .030 over, and doesn't seem to have had many mile on before it died, so it may be cleaned up with a .040 overbore (otherwise a .060 bore will do the job). It had main bearing failure, but no bearings spun. I'll also throw in a crank (may not be salvagable), some 33882 heads, rods (you should probably have them reconditioned), and pistons (probably not much use to you), all for $350. There is a cam in there of unknown lift, but you might be able to make use of it. I will not include the lifters, because I didn't keep track of where they came from.
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04-20-2004 07:54 PM #22
Casting is found at the back of the block, right above where the bellhousing mounts, just takes a little degreaser and sometimes a wire brush to find it. Decode the pad first, right behind the alternator near the bracket.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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04-21-2004 12:41 AM #23
Hi im new here just found this site today, I would check at www.racingjunk.comwelders do it in all positions
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04-21-2004 02:35 AM #24
Depending on how much motor you want to build, sometimes a crate motor or a reman from a reputable rebuilder is more cost effective...... Just my 2 cents worth.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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04-21-2004 04:31 AM #25
hmm.. thanks for the input guys.. but what i really wanna do.. is fix this motor up piece by piece... that way ill know itl b all done right.. and i bought this car for a project car..jsut for this reason.. to find a motor and fix it up. i know edelbrock has some sort of comple kit.. heads, cam,pistions,rods,lifters,pushrods,lifter, gaskets.. everything.. but im not sure what im gonna need. I want mild performance, good gas mileage, and low maintenece.
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04-21-2004 04:33 AM #26
oh yea.. and also, since its bored out .030.. wut would it make it now.. like a 355?
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04-21-2004 12:57 PM #27
I noticed there are two holes.. beside the end pushrod holes.. towards the end of the block. they appear to be the same size.. and i was wondering if they are normal
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04-21-2004 04:17 PM #28
im not sure.. they look awkard.. ill try to get apicture of tehm for you to see
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04-21-2004 04:36 PM #29
ok.. heres some pics of the two holes..
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04-21-2004 04:37 PM #30
and the other hole..
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1968 Plymouth Valiant 1st Gen HEMI