Thread: Got the frame cut!

Tweet

Well I got the crossmembers all cut and moved, and the frame (front) is cut off. I have the back half just about ready to cut apart, and then I can put the two together. I just got a stick welder last weekend, so I need to practice for a while, then I can weld the crossmembers first, and work on welding the frame back together.




Don't think it was easy but I got the frame down off the jacks, and turned across the lift by myself before cutting the rear clip off. I looked like a monkey humping a football for a while, but I got it moved.

CHAZ

Alright, you took the plunge. Now you can start seeing how this jigsaw puzzle will go back together. You may already know this, so forgive me if I mention it, but grind all of the joints where you are going to weld clean and shiny first so you get a good weld. Also, clamp the parts being welded to some structure like a piece of steel tubing to keep it in line after you weld it. Otherwise it will pull more than you can imagine.

I don't know your welding experience, and I am not a great welder, but when I was using my Lincoln welder I found some rods at Sears that they called "contact rods." I think they are powdered or something, because even I got pretty good results and flow. We have talked about these on here before, and some of the experienced welders had a numerical part number for these. Maybe these would help you.

Go to it man.

Don

Good for you man, take your time and measure more than 5 times, it will be sweet, good luck

If you have a cherry picker engine hoist, it will reallly help you to move these very heavy pieces around. Ever since I tore my bicep exactlly one year ago lifting a corner of my '39 cab, I am extremely careful and use mechanical advantage where ever I can.

Plus, those are some really substantial pieces you have in the pictures.

I'm presently looking for a new girlfriend. I don't care if she has money or is even pretty, just so she is super strong.


Don

If you have a simple 220 volt stick welder (A.C.) that does not have reverse polarity, then your best bet is a 1/8" diameter 6013 rod. You get a little better penetration with a 6011 rod, but it is a bit harder to weld with also. (I do all my chassis work with 6013). If it is a more expensive reverse polarity welding (D.C.) machine (which I doubt), then use a 7018 rod. I find that welding on anything up to 1/4" thick, that I get best weld when set at 115 Amps. If I'm welding 1/2" then I set it up for 130 Amps. If it is an A.C. welder, then forget about doing vertical welds----rotate the stuff you are welding untill it is in a horizontal position for welding.

hoof,
i have a 50# can of 6010 i think its either 1/8 or 3/32. ill give it to you iif you can use it... i bought a mig and hate to through it out...

Harmon

p.s. if you need someone to teach you i can give you a crash course (i weld for a living)

Originally Posted by CHEVYBOY

hoof,
i have a 50# can of 6010 i think its either 1/8 or 3/32. ill give it to you iif you can use it... i bought a mig and hate to through it out...

Harmon

p.s. if you need someone to teach you i can give you a crash course (i weld for a living)

You are OK Harmon. Super nice offers on both counts.



Don

Don,
thanks, hey if a fellow rodder needs a hand then so be it

Thanks again,
Harmon

Originally Posted by CHEVYBOY

Don,
thanks, hey if a fellow rodder needs a hand then so be it

Thanks again,
Harmon

I agree,but 98 percent of people would try to sell it to him.80 percent will take it for free and sell it at full cost

Sage Advise---Keep your rods dry!!! I know that sounds a bit personal, but the flux coating on stick electrodes are a real bear to soak up moisture out of the air. They won't look any different, but they will stick, and sputter, and give you grief when you are trying to use them. Most professional welding shops that use stick welders store the rods in a low heated environment that ensures that they stay dry untill ready to use. Many old welding rods that have been stored in a garage in high humidity can be given a new lease on life by heating them under a very low heat overnight in an oven---NOT THE ONE YOUR WIFE COOKS IN!!!

Keeping you RODS DRY. I used to use an old refrigerator wire it so the light stays on and turn off or remove the compressor. Works great and its cheap.

Yeah, its an AC only machine. Lincoln 225ac. After buying the wire and breaker and receptacle to run 220 in the garage it is a wonder I could afford that! I got a box of 1/8 6013 rods when I bought the welder. Just a lucky guess because I certainly didn't know what I needed. I am going to try and get some help to learn to weld decent with it, and I already figured I better flip the frame so I am always welding on a flat (down) surface.
CHAZ

Originally Posted by brianrupnow

Sage Advise---Keep your rods dry!!! I know that sounds a bit personal, but the flux coating on stick electrodes are a real bear to soak up moisture out of the air. They won't look any different, but they will stick, and sputter, and give you grief when you are trying to use them. Most professional welding shops that use stick welders store the rods in a low heated environment that ensures that they stay dry untill ready to use. Many old welding rods that have been stored in a garage in high humidity can be given a new lease on life by heating them under a very low heat overnight in an oven---NOT THE ONE YOUR WIFE COOKS IN!!!

Good tip there!I guess I mean tipS, NOT YOUR WIFES OVEN,thats a good tip too

She doesn't seem to mind the powder coating in there!
CHAZ

Watch out for what you put into an oven that you also use for cooking. The guys aren't being funny, they are serious, some of that stuff can potentially contaminate your food and not be too good for you.

I also have one of the red Lincoln 220 welders that I never get to use since we got a Mig, but I loved that thing. I have built umteen brackets, made a few trailer hitches, even used it to cut some metals before I got my torches. At one time these were state of the art, and every shop and farm had one or a similar unit.

We were just talking about this subject last night, how technology keeps marching on. I remember the day I saved up and bought my new Lincoln. I was on cloud 9. Then we would have died for a Mig, finally bit the bullet and bought a nice Miller unit. Now we are seriously getting close to buying a Tig because we want the flexibility they offer, especially on thin metals.

And yet the old Lincoln is still a fine way to join two pieces of metal together, and used in skilled hands can produce really good, pretty welds. We rodders just keep wanting newer and more efficient equipment.

Oh, Hoof............pick up a couple of scrap pieces of steel, or use some old parts off of the truck, and practice welding these first. It will give you some idea of the amps, etc that work the best. On something like the frame, you may want to spot weld these and then pay or get someone who really knows how to do it to finish weld them. Just a suggestion. Harmon is making you a nice offer of some free education, you would do well to take him up on it.


Don