Thread: Exaust question
-
08-03-2007 01:23 AM #1
Exaust question
Is there a way to have 4 sets of pipes for a v8, 2 for each side, one with a muffler and one without?
I've thought about a "Y" after the header, and capping the un muffled pipe with a removable cap of some sort. Would that work? Or would that just make a mess of pipes and increase problems with back pressure?
I'm thinking a muffled pipe for street driving, and an un muffled pipe for shows, races, or whenever I wanna be loud.
And has anyone ever ran straight pipe with a "X-pipe" somewhere in there? How would that sound as opposed to just a straight pipe? i kinda want the old raspy muscle car sound.
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
08-03-2007 05:42 AM #2
Good idea, but you're over half a century late of being original. That's how lakes pipes are set up. A tee runs the exhaust out to the 'pipes, and there's a plug you remove when you feel like being noisy.
-
08-03-2007 05:54 AM #3
Since you didn't spec what type of car (or truck) ... the answers are going to be very general.
Yes, you can run "4 pipes" ... the biggest question you have to ask youself is "Where do I want the non-muffler pipes to exit?"
The biggest problem you will face is if you want to have everything dump at the rear of the vehicle. There generally is not room for 4 pipes to run the length of the vehicle and still have it servicable.
Most guys will run a set of "dumps" just behind the front wheels, or somewhere close to there. Generally, they are nothing more than a 3" pips from just downstream of the manifold to a fitting with 3 or 4 bolts holding the cap (and gasket) on. 2 mintues with a wrench, and you now have open exhaust.
Go get friendly with your local Muffler Shop and get them to give you a free estimate. Most small muffler shops will do that for you. With the car in the air, and a "pro" looking at it, they can give you a pretty good idea of where the pipes will fit, and what clearance issues you may run into with your car.
--- the biggest problem usually is getting past the frame rails without sacrificing a lot of clearance - on larger cars you can sometimes run the pipes (dumps) to the front of the rear wheel wells. It's getting up and over the rear axle that tends to cause all the problems with running 4 pipes out the back ... things like shocks, flex lines for brakes, gas tanks & filler necks etc. start getting in the way.
Overall - Unless you have managed to weasel a V8 into an MG or Mini Cooper, there should be no problem doing what you have in mind. It's really nothing more than cutting two holes in the y-pipe, and extending to a set of caps at the edge of the vehicle.
IMO - the farther back you set the dumps, the better the sound. Dumps right at the motor are just loud, while dumps at the rear wheels have a bit more tone to them, but will still require some Advil or Tylenol after a few minutes.
Words of Warning ... DON'T get talked into having your Dumps exit under the vehicle (between the frame rails) Not only is it hard on your health is you ever sit and idle, but you are running very hot gases right onto your floor boards. Trust me, the soundproofing/underpadding in a vehicle smells very very bad when it starts to burn. And with a layer of carpet over it, it's very hard to put out once it does start to smolder.Last edited by IMagius; 08-03-2007 at 05:59 AM.
My Work in Progress ... 1955 MGA Coupe on an S-10 frame with a 4.3L V6
-
08-03-2007 07:34 AM #4
Originally Posted by 71fordkid
Then it always comes down to the basic question-----Do you want to SOUND fast, or BE fast???? On your Ford pickup, the last thing you want is a bunch of thin wall exhaust tubing under the hood, the underhood temps are high enough the way it is!!!! Unless you do a lot of suspension work, the old truck is going to do little but a lot of tire spinning when you put some horsepower to it.... Some housing floaters and ladder bars will do a lot towards getting the truck to hook up and go rather then just spinning the wheels, or just one wheel without a posi----hard to go fast off the line without one of them....
IMO, overly large thumper cams and straight pipes usually only accomplish two things;
1. Turns your truck into a favorite victim of the local constabulary.
2. Identifies the owner/driver as a poser or wanna-be in the world of go fast.
If it were that easy to be fast, we'd all be running in the 10's!!!! Hate to sound like some fuddy-duddy party crasher, but you stated in a post that you are new to the hot rodding thing. Just because you are new, there is no reason you have to go out and waste money and make the same mistakes that so many others (self included) have made before you.... This forum and others like it will provide you with a wealth of information to go fast, stop and handle good, and save a few $$$$$ from costly mistakes....Whether or not you choose to heed the advice is entirely up to you!!!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
-
08-03-2007 08:14 AM #5
There used to be "cut-outs" available that operated by a cable from inside, and a bypass pipe was run out around the muffler and back into the tailpipe, so there was no need for four pipes.
-
08-03-2007 10:50 AM #6
The vehicle in question is a 1971 Ford F-100 with a 351W.
i want the pipes to exit the same place as they do now - infront of the rear wheelwells. i figure i can have one set capped just for normal driving, around town, and then for the drags and shows have it un capped.
Ladder bars and posi are already in the plans too. i just dont know when.
Merry Christmas ya'll
Merry Christmas