Thread: 33 dodge 4 dr into 2 dr project

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Good job Skull, I like it

put the grill om just to check porportians, looks ok to me.

later

l told the body man who is helping me l was not happy with the way the rear panels looked here is a few pics of the process of removing part of that 4 door post in the middle and making the panels smooth and flat. hope to be done with the panels soon.



here is the steering wheel l am using. it's a real classic from the 70's. l've had it fore ever and used it on several cars. kept it because it's really cool and old school

more progress pics:::

started replacing the rusted out floor pan and got the gas tank mount welded in yesterday. we stuck the mock up motor & tranny in to see where the firewall and floor pan needed modified. the mock up running gear fit better than l thought it would considering all the changes that have been made to the body. lots of measuring before cuttiing out the 7" from the back doors and roof put the firewall 2 1/2" from the back of the motor leaving room for the HEI distribtor.



today starts floor pan install and figuring out exhaust placement.



Later

badass that is all

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we started working on the floor pan and firewall. the oringal floor was to rusted out and unsafe to use. so 99% of the floor was cut out. to replace the floor pan l am using a method that worked good on my race cars. we are building a cage out of square tubing that runs from side to side and front to back out of 2" in the rear and 1 1/2" in the front so the metal floor sits on top of the floor cage . the floor pan will then be attached to the floor cage by welding. this makes a stronger floor pan than the oringal. the floor cage then will be attached to the chassis by bolts.

the fire wall will then be fabbed to the foor pan and welded together creating a one piece firewall to floorpan with no seams. many holes will have to be filled in and the redrilled in the places to run hoses, steering and other things thru.

post updates on progress soon,

Later

We started removing the old rusty wheel inner fender wells in the rear to get ready to put in small tubs. because of the narrowed ford 9" rearend, a mild 3" inset on the rear inner panels is required to clear the tires. the out side panels will be raised and leved to the frame for suspension travel.



car still looks rough but progress is moving at a decent pace.



behind a little bit. By now l was hoping frame/chassis was powder coated and re-assembled so the hard lines and wiring was underway.



post more progress as soon as it happens.





Later

today's stuff.

started re-doing the rear inner fender wells to make mini tubs for rear tire clearance.

we used a single axle trailer fender cut in half down the middle. worked great and when sound deadening and carpet is installed, ya'll never know what was put in to tub it.

Later

Frame is looking good!

started the fire wall and hopes are to get the floorpans done soon

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did some figuring out how the exhaust will be ran . came up with a set of T bucket headers.
they stuck out way to far and interfered with the steering. when l turned the tires. they hit the front pipe. the pipes also stuck out to far for my liking.
we cut the tubes; 5'' out of the front, 4 1/2'' out the middle and 4'' out of the back.
this matches the angle of the frame and tucks the exaust under the body so it won't burn peoples legs getting in and out.
the chrome tips are 18'' long and have mufflers built in. l'm gonna end the pipes in front of the rear tire, turned slightly down to direct exhaust fumes away from the car.

Later

pics of fire wall starting to be extended down to meet the floor pans.

exhuast pics.

more pics......

this shot shows how much better they now fit

the other header that l put the picture of is made to fit 32-34 ford frames, it also sat to close to the front tires and also interferred with the steering and hit the coloulm shaft. it ran the shaft right thru the middle of the pipe, not under or over it. l thought of several ways to modify the pipes or coloulm but nothing worked. l then tried other styles, fender well headers, 3 different styles of block hugger headers, 70's camaro, 62- 79 nova, 64-72 chevelle, 57 chevy, 4 sets of roadster headers and even some V8 vega headers l had laying around since the early 80's nothing worked till l made the T pipes.

later

so, finally the floor pans are in. now mock up pedals is next.

Later

l mocked up the master cylinders today and the placement for the fuel pedal and brake pedal. running two single chamber master cylinders, 1'' bore for the front and 7/8 bore for the rear. the balance bar under the the dash that attaches the master cylinders to one pedal has a 15% angle so the front brakes engange a fraction of a second before the rear brakes. hard lines next, fuel, brake etc.

then motor will be to be mocked up next, that's the ugly one ya see in the picture. the one going in for real is a 400hp small block chevy and is painted black with lots of chrome goodies, [chrome makes it go faster] and then steering colunm, then wiring and on and on it goes.

taking longer than l hoped, but if l want it nice, ya pay the price.

Later