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Thread: Rat rod frame suggestions
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    tuhll's Avatar
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    Question Rat rod frame suggestions

     



    A friend has a 35 Ford AA truck body that I can get cheap. I was wondering if there is a new style frame the body could be easily installed on besides using an "A" frame? It was a flatbed truck with dual rear wheels. It is rough and would make a decent rat rod.
    Tom
    Last edited by tuhll; 11-16-2009 at 05:02 PM. Reason: Change wording.

  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    New design frames seldom lend themselves well to a 30's body..... Matt has a thread on here someplace on his rat build, has a start on a good frame...

    The old bodies just don't fit....let alone easily. Even if it's a Rat, compatibility and a central theme for the build should be taken into consideration....
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

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  3. #3
    tuhll's Avatar
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    Thanks

     



    Thanks Dave. I'm a newbie to this forum and I'm having a ball reading all the threads that I can. Not getting much done around the house but I'm retired so every day is Sunday. Right? This will be my first build. I've restored a 71 Camaro and 57 Chevy but never started from scratch. I'm 63 years old but never too late to start. I just hope this old dog is not too old to learn.
    I have a model T frame but don't think that would work well for a rat rod. Guess I could beef it up and add my own kick up for the rear suspension. Would that be OK or should I start with an A frame and go from there?
    Tom

  4. #4
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuhll View Post
    Thanks Dave. I'm a newbie to this forum and I'm having a ball reading all the threads that I can. Not getting much done around the house but I'm retired so every day is Sunday. Right? This will be my first build. I've restored a 71 Camaro and 57 Chevy but never started from scratch. I'm 63 years old but never too late to start. I just hope this old dog is not too old to learn.
    I have a model T frame but don't think that would work well for a rat rod. Guess I could beef it up and add my own kick up for the rear suspension. Would that be OK or should I start with an A frame and go from there?
    Tom
    I'm no big fan of the stock A frames, they were prone to cracking... By the time you go to the work and expense of getting an original frame blasted, boxed, z'd and whatever other mods you plan on doing, it will usually come out better to just get some 1 1/2" X 3" or 2" X 4" rectangular tubing and build the frame the way you want. Matt's thread shows some good techniques and methods to make the frame strong, safe, and square....
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  5. #5
    tuhll's Avatar
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    Sounds like thats the thing to do. Just realized Matt lives not to far from where I live when I am back in NY. Thanks for all the help Dave.

  6. #6
    dmw56's Avatar
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    Check into using a T-bucket frame. Lots of companies making them or they are not hard to make youself. The one I used on mine is from Spirit Industries. http://www.spiritcars.com/

    Heres some pictures of my Rat. 1951 Ford F1 on a T-bucket frame for a 27 T.






    Livin' on Route 66

  7. #7
    tuhll's Avatar
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    Thanks DMW56. I'll look into that frame also.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuhll View Post
    Thanks DMW56. I'll look into that frame also.
    Just a note, you can get a bare frame from them also for a little less $$, so you can put the brackets where you need them for different applications.

    I paid $350 for my bare frame 2 years ago. I couldn't buy the steel for that price then.
    Livin' on Route 66

  9. #9
    tuhll's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmw56 View Post
    Just a note, you can get a bare frame from them also for a little less $$, so you can put the brackets where you need them for different applications.

    I paid $350 for my bare frame 2 years ago. I couldn't buy the steel for that price then.
    Thanks. I don't have the tools to cut the steel at home and only have an old stick welder so it looks like thats the best option for me. And by the way I forgot to mention I like your rod. Nice job. Hope mine turns out that nice.
    Tom

  10. #10
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    My Frame is based off of a Spirit frame, but I didn't neaten up the rails in front of the tubes like the Spirit chassis has them, but I still might.. still, I used a chop saw and an A/C 225 arc welder to build it... my frame has the kickups cut at 45* instead of 35*, which makes a complete 90* kickup., and I built it 3" longer b4 the kickup, and it's 20" after the kickup. but I'm fabricating a body that's a little larger than the 'standard' early car.
    Attached Images
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  11. #11
    tuhll's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt167 View Post
    My Frame is based off of a Spirit frame, but I didn't neaten up the rails in front of the tubes like the Spirit chassis has them, but I still might.. still, I used a chop saw and an A/C 225 arc welder to build it... my frame has the kickups cut at 45* instead of 35*, which makes a complete 90* kickup., and I built it 3" longer b4 the kickup, and it's 20" after the kickup. but I'm fabricating a body that's a little larger than the 'standard' early car.
    Thanks Matt. When I get home from sunny Florida in the spring I might get in touch with you to take a look at what you've done. I have attached a picture of the 35 ford AA that I might buy to use. Don't know if a double A body is too big/wide for a rat rod. Any ideas?
    Tom
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  12. #12
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    The cabs are all the same from the 1/2 ton's on up. the diffrences are in the fenders and hoods
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  13. #13
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    I have heard that the cabs were the same but wasn't sure. I wouldn't use the fenders or hood anyway. If I buy it I plan on chopping the top and build or buy a frame like suggested. I am also looking for a better body down here in Florida. But if I can't find anything then I think thats what I will use.

    I have a 73 ElCamino donor that is junk but I got the 307 sb and 3 speed tranny. Will I have to use a different tranny mount than for an automatic? Wondering if I can use the rear end? How about the front suspension although I would really like to have a straight axle. Guess I'm asking what all can I use off the Camino?

    I really appreciate all the suggestions you guys have given me. It amazes me how you know so much about what fits what.
    Tom

  14. #14
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    you will need to buy tubular crossmember mounts for the engine/ trans from speedway.. Spirit sellls seperate motor mounts which doesn't support like the speedway crossmembers, and the Spirit trans crossmembers are bulky... front suspension from the El-camino is way to wide.. spirit frames are 26 1/2" wide.. you pretty much need the dropped axle. but the rear end could work with the correct offset wheels.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

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  15. #15
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    [QUOTE=tuhll;369577]Thanks. I don't have the tools to cut the steel at home and only have an old stick welder

    I can only speak from my experience . we -my son and I -built our rat from scratch . He knew how to weld , first thing we did was buy a chop saw and a welder and all the tools we didn't have . We could not have built the truck with out them . You are constantly cutting tacking recutting and welding . It also helped that a good friend had the following: plasma cutter,lift,shrinker- stretcher, break, and lots of tools . Another friend who is a professional welder. welded the frame and the other critical joints , Building a "rat" is no different than building any other kind of vehicle , everything has too be done correctly or you could be killed when something that was improperly made , fails.It is actually harder than building something with off the shelf parts that you just bolt on . You also have the added factor that it has too look good -not all different make parts look good mixed . If you dom"t have a stash of old parts out back , or the time too hunt down what you need and lots of tools , you could easily drop 10 grand building a safe vehicle . Just something for you to think about . Are you going to the Turkey run next week ,I'm sure there will be a lot of rats there to give you insperation .LFE I will be there call me on my cell 302 535 3046
    Failing to plan is planing to fail

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