Thread: I got the front axle set in place, now what?

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Here's the pics of the front axle setting in place and only supported by a jack stand under the axle and hairpins are bolted in the original hole in the frame from the butchered axle I removed. Now question is,,,,I want to install a 3 inch round tube to support the leaf spring and looks like I have to keep the kickups on the frame but should I mount the hairpins under the frame other than where they are now and will that lower the ride. I believe if I got rid of the kickups it might set me too high. Opinions?????????032.jpg031.jpg033.jpg

From the pictures you provided it looks like you could keep the kickup. Personally I think it may look better with the spring perch closer to the grille, but I don't know what your wheelbase is overall however.

When you weld in the front tube and spring perch remember you need to build in 5 to 7 degrees caster (kingpin leaning back at the top) at RIDE HEIGHT. This will usually dictate where you mount the hairpins, although there is some adjustment in the clevis's, so you may be Ok.

Mick

I'd agree with Mick. Push the axle closer to the grill. Also verify that the car is at your desired ride height then do your mockup / installation. FWIW, my point 02.

I would C notch the existing ends of the frame, weld the 3 inch in, and move the hairpin mounts back, just like the other guys have said.

As to ride hight remember the spring will compress some with the weight of the hotrod added. After you get the perch in place and the holes drilled for the spring. I suggest you bolt it up put a jack under the axel check the ride hight, yes a thousand times bring that axel back and tighter to the rad. Use the front spindles as a point of reference.

You will find there is more planing and measuring involved to make this happen then actual part assembly. Don't rush take your time to get things aligned you will be happier the end. BTW right choice to change that mess out that was hanging there.

Yes i can move the hairpins back towards the rear but,,,,,the further back I go the wider the frame gets. Right now where they are I had to spread them. That's why I was wondering if I can put my mounts under the frame? Also how would I set the ride height? Do I get my wheels and tires, both em on and them set everything? Also how should I measure for the back spacing for the disc brakes as to what wheels I can use.

Back on Dec 10, I suggested you cut it off at the firewall-----you really should take a look at that--then you can narrow the frame rails as they come forward and make the wheel base anything you want---your radius rods can be mounted correctly and you can get rid of the UGLY kickup---if you do the frame rails a little more conventional it will actually be a pretty decent looking vehicle and you won't really diminish the LOOK of the rat mobile

I agree with Jerry. The taper of the frame rail can be adjusted now allowing you to put the hairpins anywhere. I'm kind of new to this as well but from what I can tell, attaching the hairpins under the frame would raise the vehicle. Tack weld frame rails in place, place hair pins with king pins at their 5 to 7 degrees, tack weld (heavy tacks) spreader bar, and tack weld spring perch mount to spreader bar. Then if was me, with weight of car, I'd slowly lower jack until spring is under load. I would however leave the jack under it in case one of your tack welds don't hold. Then check ride height and caster angle and you'll know if you need adjust kick up or hairpin placement. Hopefully spring rate will be close to what you need in your setup.

Guys, typically the hairpins should be parallel to ground more or less shouldnt they?

David