Thread: Really need help with front radius rods.....

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Nicely put 30-40 and I'm learning alot from these posts. I'm keeping the kickup where it is FOR NOW,,,,,,,,,and going to make this thing a safe and reliable ride for the wife. My main concern is first safety and then along with that easy handling. But also on a time period to get er done. I'm just soaking all this up from you guys and it's helping alot figuring it out. I build several rods (some that made magazine covers) but they were Mustang ll front ends. Piece of cake. Now we have rat rods, which we love and with the straight axles it's a different story. By all means get me the positive along with the negative, I eat it up. But,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,brainstorming is the best way to solve issues and aid to get it right. I want to thank all who is helping me with this and I'm positive we'll get it right. It's not just me building this thing but all of us. Thanks again and keep it coming. Oh and the worst part is,,,,,,,,,,,I'm only working part time making 7.25 and hr down from 22.00 so we have a bit of a $$$$$$$$ thing, And I'm on a bounce back. LOL

Got the door lettering done last week. I didn't have a problem with that. LOL

I like that sign!! What's your definition of "Toading" (seen several)?

I'm installing a tow truck boom on the back, actually cuttling it down just for looks. Towing,,,,toading. It's a witchy thing for the wife.

Here is one of my favorites local car.He did such a nice job and it all works:

Hey Bearcamp,
As I awoke this morning a little voice in my head was saying "...extend the radius to the axle..." My visual concept of changing caster was totally wrong, and I'm sorry for confusing the issue. All points are hard points from the radius rod pivot to the axle, so the axle indeed pivots around that one, common point and caster changes are relative to a vertical line through that arc. Other than looking "different" the unequal length top/bottom rods make no difference to your setup. Listen to Jerry, Dave, Mike, Charlie, and others who know the old rules of thumb much better than I, and I'll try to stay out of the design theory questions. I hope you get it sorted out where you're happy with it, and you keep mama safe too.

OK--next time coming thru Gardner, you can buy me coffee

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

OK--next time coming thru Gardner, you can buy me coffee

Heck, I'll buy you a coffee about anytime you're coming through here, as long as your not stuck on some Double Mocha Hot Shot Latte stuff from Starbucks or somewhere. I'd likely even buy you a beer or two....long as you don't mind being around a redneck - actually more of a transplanted Ozark Hillbilly.

I don't go into Starbucks---reasons--too many people with I phones(apple execs 100+million bonus, 500,000 chinese jobs) drinking high doller drinks that just had prices raised cause coffee went up and cep S-burks getting $65million bonus PLUS 12 mill retension -----and the management wants cut of the tip jar????

So with all said, should the spring mount have 4-7 degrees added just like the spindles?

As long as the kingpins have 4 : 7 degrees, it would be better when it's set into the spring mount, rather than twisting the springs. But if the axle / spindles are already setup to give you the angle then your set and won't need additional.

from your much earlier posts about the axles from speedway there was some discussion about the angle of the spindles and doing some remachining--its not possitively clear to me that you have the ANGLE in the discussion correct----Caster angle is what the king pins lean back and camber is the angle the wheels tip in or out sideways---the frame spring perch and spring axle mountingpoints should be tipped that slight amount so the spring doesn't twist as it works up and down.