Thread: 1930 Model A Truck Rat Rod Project - Best Frame

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I apologize for asking something that I am certain has been ask and answered hundreds of times, but I am both new to the forum and building.

I just picked up a 1930 Model A truck cab...minus the drivers side door if anyone has one. But I am needing direction of the best frame to hang this on. I have heard good and bad on the S10 and do want something that will end up looking "correct"

Thanks in advance.

Rob

Hey Rob, welcome to CHR. That's a question that indeed comes up every once in a while, and in fact we just went through a lot of the issues with another guy on his thread about a '41 Chevy he's wanting to buy - Chevy SB and Automatic in S10 frame The same things apply to you, but even more due to the size of the Model A relative to the late model chassis, and the visibility of the chassis on the finished truck. The answer is to either use the original frame, or if it's not good buy replacement rails from American Stamping, Speedway, or one of the other shops out there and bring it back the way you want it.

If you want it "correct' stick with the stock frame

If the original frame is usable keep it and reinforce it if necessary. The S10 frame is just wrong for your application. You'll spend more time and $$$$ trying to make it work than you can believe.

These guys pretty much got ya covered. If you do some looking you can still find model a frames in decent shape. Good luck with it.

I messed with several stock Model A frames and encountered a LOT of rust problems. Then I bought a Brookville frame and really like the rear shock-spring setup. The shock-springs offer a softer ride in the rear but I kept the I-beam front axle setup and with a SBC the front rides heavy even with a super slide front spring. The shape of the rear cross member on the Brookville replacement frame allows more coil spring action but eliminates the stock rear spring. The only problem I had with the Brookville Model A frame was the puny 5/16" bolts for the rear bumper, they are far too weak to support a heavy stock bumper if you want to keep the stock look. I solved that problem using stock rear bumper brackets that I bolted to the inner walls of the frame and now I can jump on the rear bumper and only the coil springs flex. I liked the squareness of the Brookville bumper. My son and I were able to adjust the four-bar lengths to match the corner-to-corner distance on the frame to within less than 1/32".

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist.teen rodder

Thanks everybody for your input. Part of my problem is that all I have is the cab. And although I think I have a lead on an original one, the thought of having to deal with a whole new drivetrain and suspension is a little daunting. Hopefully there is something out there that will allow some short cutts.

Buy a roller chassis from one of the many shops that provide them, tricked out as you want it. Pete & Jakes is one place that offers a '28 to '31 chassis package, either economy or show chrome. Your idea of short cuts will lead you to a big mess.

You might be able to buy one of these that a local guy sells a lot of them.

Mac's Chassis

If I ever find a body decent enough, I will just build a frame out of 2x3" tubing and go from there. Check out that link and see what you think.

So what did yo end up doing for the frame?

Originally Posted by Robs Hot Rod

I apologize for asking something that I am certain has been ask and answered hundreds of times, but I am both new to the forum and building.

I just picked up a 1930 Model A truck cab...minus the drivers side door if anyone has one. But I am needing direction of the best frame to hang this on. I have heard good and bad on the S10 and do want something that will end up looking "correct"

Thanks in advance.

Rob

I could be wrong, but it has been my experience that the only serial numbers on the model A are on the original engine (likely long gone) and on the frame under the cowl, usually rusted. How will you register it without a serial number if you go homemade frame or aftermarket? I have 3 model A's in my garage right now and have yet to find a serial number on any of the bodies

Hi'YA Ben.. You've replied to a thread that was last active in 2014, 10th month..
But you're right of course. The frame carried the serial numbers as well as the top of the trans/bell to be seen from the top of the car.

There were 2 other "hidden" spots at the rear of the frame but they don't always appear. Usually rusted over & gone. I won't even touch the registering issue! LOL..