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Thread: Frame Narrowing
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
    FMXhellraiser is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Frame Narrowing

     



    I wan't to start getting a price list here of what I need and how much the parts will be to narrow my frame down in the rear and was wondering if you guy's knew what kind of boxnig metal I should use for the 48? Should I use the same kind of metal that the frame is now or something thicker, etc? Thanks for any help. I will post further questions on here later when I get to them because I know I have a few more but no need for me to ask or worry about them at the moment.
    I greatly appreciate it.


    Shawn-
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  2. #2
    riverhorse59's Avatar
    riverhorse59 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 64 Impala SS
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    You will want to use 2x3 inch box tubing for most of your rear frame section except for the two short legs where you will tie into the existing frame. there you will proberly want to use 4x4 box tubing. You should be able to purchase this for about $100.00 or so.then what are you doing for rear suspension, trying to adapt what you have, or going to ladder bars,4-link or what? You can price them out in Summit or Jegs book. How about Shocks or coilovers

  3. #3
    riverhorse59's Avatar
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    Sorry , I sent that before I was through.You will need a mounting for the shocks or coilovers. Im sure I left something out but you have something to consider. 48 chevy---- When I was 16-44years ago one of my best friends had a 48 fleetline 2dr,coupe. Wewent to the wrecking yard and purchased a283-220h.p. powerpack engine for ,I think $200.00, put a o97 duntof cam in it and could run with almost anything. Wouldn't you love to be able to do it for that now?

  4. #4
    Matt167's Avatar
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    FMX, what about taking your rear fenders to a bodyshop or your bodyshop class, cutting them in 2 down the middle then, fab about a 4" or so strip of metal with the correct curve of the fender, length and everything to widen the rear fender then wheel spacers to bring the wheel out more and then allow the use of wider tires.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

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  5. #5
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
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    Yeah Matt I was thinking that but not sure... Riverhorse59, what are you talking about with the 2X4 or the 4X4? Don't I just need to cut the frame about 5 inches before the frame starts curving up in the rear and then step it in and do two 45 degree angles on the step ins and then the original frame where I am going to cut it? Sorry if that's confusing. Got any draw ups or examples? My books don't really go into detail with how to narrow nothing. I also will be using a 4 bar and 16.5 inch tires in the rear and a 454 BBC with a 700R4 tranny probably. Rear end I think I am going to get from Currie. I have been talking to them there and they said I can get a whole setup with brakes and everything and a straight bolt up for $2400. I have money for the metal, wheels and all my brake stuff then I need to wait on the rear end.
    Thanks again!
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  6. #6
    riverhorse59's Avatar
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    I was talking about using the4 x4 Box tubing for your step- ins and the 2x3 from there back.You really need to go look at a couple different cars that have been backhalfed,study them carefully and then decide how you want to do yours. I forgot earlier that you also need to make your rear body supports to mount the body back to the frame. Good Luck ! Remember - Study and prepare first.

  7. #7
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
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    Thanks man I really appreciate it. I was talking to and looking at my collision teachers pro street blazer he's got and he said all he did was step in it right there, weld it up, added a roll cage and then flattened his leaf springs some to lower the rear and tuck the wides in and that was it. No on the back part of my frame there is just holes on each side and that's it and the mounts go right on top of the holes so all I would have to do is just drill holes through the floor and get the right bolts, etc right?... or wrong?
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

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