Thread: Chev tilt column in Model A

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C9x, thanks for the tip about the stop nuts on the axle, I will check mine. I just got off the phone with the tech guy at Lokar and unfortunately they do not support any link between their shifter and the lever at the bottom of the Camaro column so If I use the Camaro column I will have to disable the lock feature somehow or provide a hidden lever under the dash to provide a locking mechanism. Now I am back to scratching my head. Can Henry Rifle recall any more details about his setup regarding the shift lever at the bottom of the column? In my case it would only be needed to lock the column. Back to the drawing board!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

i have a 31 model a and used a colulmn out of a s-10. I took it apart and collapsed it to the length i wanted .also changed the whole top tilt mechanism with one out of a 85 chev truck. reason i did this is the s-10 with the wiper switch in the signal lite switch could not be shortened and would be to close to the door. the older one can be shortened easily. remember colulmns are collapsable and can be shortened or lengthed about 2 inches safeley kurb

Originally posted by DennyW
Hey, that really looks great. That's the style I want to use in my 34 chevy truck. I want to use stainless tube though. Would it be possible for you to email the bearing No., and type? I'm not sure what to use. I have a couple ideas, but, seems you have it done to a T. Thanks, Denny

I couldn't find the bearing number.
(No surprise there. After the move to Arizona 4 months ago, I can't find much of anything....)

If you use a GM column, the shaft is 3/4" in diameter.
Go to your local bearing house and buy a sealed bearing with an ID of 3/4" and the smallest OD possible.
You may have to file away some light burrs on the shaft so the bearing will slide on, but it's a quick and easy deal.

The 1 5/8" OD aluminum tube I use has a 1/8" wall so the tubing ID is 1 3/8".
You wont' be able to find a bearing with 3/4" ID in a 1 3/8" OD.
At least I couldn't and that was checking at a couple of bearing houses.

What you'll need is a couple of machined adapters with one end sized to fit inside your tubing and the other bored to fit the bearing.
I usually JB Weld (an epoxy) the lower adapter and either leave the top one loose or use a dab of clear silicon to retain it in place.
If you're reasonable in the use of the silicon it's easy to pull apart and it stops vibrational wear between tube and adapter.
The epoxied in piece can be removed as well.
A little heat is all that's required. Bout 400-600 degrees F.

The pic below will give you an idea of the components used.
Disregard the quick release hub and flat aluminum column drop.
What you're interested in are the adapters, bearings and stainless steel retainers.

Here's a closer view of the individual pieces.

Top back shows the aluminum adapters.

Bottom left shows one of the upper and lower retainers.
This piece is stainless and drilled & tapped for 10/32 cup point set screws.
Three of them equidistant around the retainer.
They're also drilled at a slight angle so when the set screws are tightened they pull the retainer towards the bearing which puts a light pre-load on it as well as takes all longitudinal play out of the steering column/shaft combo.

Note too, the machined step in the retainer.
That allows the retainer to clear the outer part of the bearing.

The other pieces go to the flat column drop and allow adaptation to the quick release steering hub.
The car this column goes on was originally slated to be a Bonneville, Dry Lakes car, but it's going on the street instead.

Incidentally, the sealed ball bearings go a long way toward making the car steer easily.

This last pic shows the pre-assembled bottom end of the column/shaft.

You can see the small step machined into the stainless retainer fairly well.

I run this same column in my 32 roadster and no problems in 42,000 miles.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

These photos were originally in a Western Canada newsletter - that's more like a magazine - and you'll find more detail there.

Go here: http://www.fsra.org/

Oh----My kingdom for a lathe!!!!

Oh----My kingdom for a lathe!!!!

I hear you there.

The steering column I've been talking about could have been done on a 6" lathe.
(6" lathe defined as it will swing a 6" diameter piece - 18" between centers.

A 12 x 24" or 12 x 36" lathe allows you to make some bigger stuff, but you'd be surprised what you can do with a smaller one.

Smaller lathes - 6 x 18" - can be bought for $300. - $500. used.
Most times American made and most times with a bit of tooling.
(The tooling is what adds up.)

As mentioned I have about $20. invested in the aluminum column.
I had most of the aluminum on hand and some of it was free.
If I would have had to purchase the aluminum, total cost would still be under $50. for the column, bearings and all.

Compare the price of an aftermarket column to the cost of a lathe, toss in some aluminum and stainless and you wouldn't be spending much more than what a commercially available column would cost.
Plus, when the job is over, you have a most useful tool for other projects.

A lathe can be a timesaver as well.
Nothing quite like knocking out a special spacer in just a few minutes and not having to put the job on hold until you can buy the right part.

Running the lathe is just plain fun.
Least it is for me.
I like to make everything I can for the roadsters.

All the way from Teflon bushed aluminum throttle pedals, carb linkages, breathers, engine valve train parts, air cleaners, aluminum pulley adapters, rubber seal adapters to replace the rope seals in the front of the Buick 455's I use, finishing escutcheons that hold the carpet down and let the brake pedal through, degreed crank hubs to Teflon sealed throttle rod firewall seals.

You're only limited by your imagination.

I encourage you to get a lathe.

Grizzly is an excellent place to go.
Even thought their lathes et al are manufactured offshore, they have people checking quality and working on the designs with the manufacturers.

If you live in a big city, you can find lathes in the free Recycler type newspapers.
Called Penny-Savers in some areas.

There are a lot of American made lathes out there and even if they are broken, they're easy to fix.

One big correction I want to make concerning the steering column shaft length.

I've been writing 27", but the actual length used is 37".

I went out and measured the length this morning and 37" is correct.
Not sure where the 27" bit came from.

There are some GM shafts a bit longer and one that comes in at approx. 31".

They tell me that memory is the first thing to go.
Hope I remembered that right....