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Thread: Garage floor paint
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Blueovalfanatic is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Garage floor paint

     



    I have two questions for anyone who has used either a one or two part concrete paint...

    Most abusive thing to the floor will be jackstands/floorjack. I expect to have to touch it up from time to time. Is the added durability of the 2 part epoxy worth the hassle of mixing parts A and B everytime I want to touch up something on the floor? Another concern is "hot tire pick-up", as I am constantly pulling someones car inside that all arrive with hot tires.

    Second question, and it's kind of a crazy one. I have ruled out Race Deck (too expensive) and actual tiles, as the floor is concave- id surely run into trouble getting them all to line up. Paint is my only option, and I'd like to have a checkered floor. Assuming I was dumb enough to spend the time to paint the floor white, then painting each individual black square, would it be practical. Is the paint "brush friendly", or is slathering it on with a roller about the only option?

    Thanks for any ideas, suggestions, etc
    Greg

  2. #2
    40roadking's Avatar
    40roadking is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Greetings, a friend of mine does the epoxy flooring on large scale, and when he has leftover (unmixed) supplies, I grab some. The durability is incredible, and he says the best result comes from trowing it, but you can brush as a last resort. Temperature is important (nice and mild is best). I'll have to find out the name of the stuff he uses, the cans simply state color and part a part b. I've used the stuff on my rowboat as well as floors, and is very versatile. Even with it's quality, I'm sure that repeated jacks and stand wear will occur. Touch up with brush.

    As for your second question; vinyl. I'm planning my new garage layout, and told him I want a flame job for the finished car bay. His reply was simply, vinyl sign material, then apply clear epoxy. I guess that would work for checkerboard as well. Best of luck, and I look forward to seeing other opinions.

    Matt
    BTW, the stuff he uses is $185 for 1 gallon part a, and quart of b. Not sure if it will be cost effective for you. I'll get the name.

  3. #3
    Larry M's Avatar
    Larry M is offline Senior Club Hot Rod Member Lifetime Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hey Greg, try doing a search in here on "*garage floors" without the quotes, there was some old threads on the subject some time ago. Click on the search function at the top of the page and you will find a few threads.

    Larry M
    Every Day I Wake Up Above Ground Is a Good Day!!

  4. #4
    1stGenCamaro is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I think Por-15 would work great for you, its really tough and durable and they have it out for cement/concrete floor as well. It can be sprayed, painted, etc. It doesnt have to be a two part thing either, but you can if you want if I remember correctly. Semi-gloss or gloss are options as well. Also, if you wanted to paint in squares you could just make a template of a checkerboard outta something you got laying around or buy something like plexiglass or vinyl checkerboard. Paint the whole floor white or use the template w/e. I'm sure you get the picture. That might work and that way you will have a consistent look too.
    I'd rather go fast than worry about the gas mileage.

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    Troglodyte's Avatar
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    I am gonna paint mine this summer too........funny thing.all I hear is about epoxy......yet I spilled some plain latex paint on bare floor and it too a damn blowtorch and chisel to get it off......lol

  6. #6
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  7. #7
    Blueovalfanatic is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks for the replies. I also read through the attached link. On another forum, I spoke with a guy who used a 1 part epoxy, and through steelwork and welding, the floor is stained, but sound. I have pretty much decided on SealKrete "Epoxy-Seal", which is a 1-part acrylic-epoxy. Price (23.94 @ gal), and easy touch-up were the deciding factor. Also, a vast array of colors.

    I am however still wondering if applying charcoal gray over white is feasible. I e-mailed SealKrete tonight, and will see what they say. If it wont work, I will just have to go with solid light gray without the "checkerboard". I will update this thread and post a couple pics when done.

    Thanks to all for the info!
    Greg
    www.gregsgarage.20megsfree.com

  8. #8
    40roadking's Avatar
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    Just a follow up- the cheaper version of the 2 part epoxy is Dex-o-tech, I think around $100 to do 300 sq. feet, trowled, not brushed. This stuff is also used for rolling up cove base. Fun, durable, but pricey.

    Matt

  9. #9
    Blueovalfanatic is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sorry I havent responded til now. I have as usual been having computer problems. The sealer and wax sounds good. Before its all over with, im gonna be scared to do anything on it. LOL

    I did e-mail SealKrete about the one part epoxy fortified paint. I got a prompt answer the next moring. They said the white is a base, and to have the guy at Lowes put 5 oz. of white colorant into each gallon to make it a true white. Also, caharcoal gray is not the darkest, as basically everything is a custom mixed color. In other words, they can make the paint black.

    I picked up two gallons of white, and it is definately a white. I will get the black after applying the white, but it will still be awhile before the temperature is suitable for painting. I also have it layed out in my mind, and plan to do the squares 16" after considering 12" and 14" squares.

    Thanks again for the info- I will look into the sealer and wax, and again will post pics when I start painting it.

    Greg

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