Thread: Tube Bender

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Any body know where i can get Tubing Bender dies "ONLY". Don't necessarily need the whole set-up just the dies. I have an idea to build the rest myself. I'll post the idea when I have pics. I would need dies for 1 5/8", 1 1/4", 3/4" O.D. for sure and others sizes would be nice. Harbor Freight has a cheap set for $99.99 I could get the dies from. Just thought there might be some dies laying around somewhere not being used anymore. Post here or send me a PM. Thanks pro70z28


Maybe this shoulda' gone in the "Parts Wanted" forum, sorry Bill..........

You should be able order just the dies you want from Harbor Freight through their 800 number.......

MM64

Thanks for the replies. After looking at options I think for the few bends I need I'll just look for a local builder and have them make the bends or maybe let me use their bender.

Yup. There's a guy about a mile from me, built a 10 sec. ElCamino. I think he built his own cage. Maybe he'll bend it for me?

?................ and I need a tube bender because...............?

Art Morrison said to mount the body rocker panels level with the top of the main frame rails. Sooo, I did. I should have known better being 6'. that set up is equivalent to a 4" channel. I'll know to mock up and check better next time ......... I hope.

So, I ordered a couple lengths of 1 5/8" x .120" from the local speed shop this morning, and came home N' jacked the body up 2 1/2". Now I have to bend a new main hoop and 1 main hoop to firewall tube. (Just tacked in.... good thing). All will be good. Car won't set quite as low as I wanted although I can make up some of it in the suspension. I now have more head room, More trunk space for fuel cell. and the blower is lower.

No, that's not a crooked cage tube in front by the door hinges. that's the level laying across the frame railz'

Originally posted by techinspector1
pro, what do you think about tucking that halo up into the roof a little farther? I don't think you're gonna be "in the box". You need 3" between your helmet and the bar. I think that's right, I don't have my rulebook here at the house. I just don't want you to get everything nailed in and then find that the chassis cert. tech gives you a thumbs-down for headroom.

Thanks for the observation Richard. I appreciate any and all comments because it's easier to fix problems sooner than later.. I plan to post pics. as I go and if anyone sees something that' doesn't look right PLEASE don't hesitate to tell me. I'm all for saving myself redo time by catching a problem early. This is my first certified chassis, so your help is an asset for sure.

Yea, those are the 2 pieces I cut to fit with the body channeled 4". That's when I put a seat in and found the headroom problem. I don't want to give up the spring & upholstered seats for aluminum buckets so I raised the body 2 1/2". The tubes were within 1/4" of the roof before. I have a 2 1/2" pan to the floor now rather than level with the rocker sill and I should have enough head room with the new 1 1/2" channel. Luckily the lesson only cost me the 2 tubes and some time. Actually if there is a silver lining here I think I'm going to change the main hoop just a little to get it about an 1" wider at the bottom on each side - closer to the door jam. At least they were just tacked in. Morrison said the 4" channel would work fine. He musta' thought I was 5' tall. HEHEHE

Originally posted by Streets
IF'n it wuz me GS, I'd have Morrison build me a cage or a whole tube chassis...

Ya-butt, That's kinda' like goin' to the fish market instead of takin' the ol' Johnson rod to da' pond ta' catch yer' own.

Originally posted by Streets
Oops, I fergot dat Jenni's gettin' hitched and YOU gotta spring fer the 20 G's weddin and reception... Ain'tcha glad ya don't have but ONE daughter??

.......and there is that too.........

That car is gonna be sooo low! Looks cool pro.

Wow all this great stuff I'm getting to learn from you guys is awsome thanks. Pro70z28 I've never asked but have you done a whole chassis before or is this your first? Non of my buisness, Just asking since I'm getting ready to start on building my first frame. I welded the front end but on my camaro after a head on wreck with a drunk lady a few years back. Actuly welded a Iroc front end back on it. But this is the only real chassis project that mattered and needed to be right or at least safe. Me and a buddy of mine did build a nice trailer together and it pulls nice and strait and trails great. It's 20ft. long by 8 1/2 ft. wide.
But I am a little nervous about starting my own chassis.


~ Vegas ~

Originally posted by techinspector1
pro, here's the thing...NHRA will allow up to 25% of the circumference of the bar to be unwelded at a joint if you gusset the joint. On a 1 5/8" bar, that's 1.276" around the bar that can be unwelded if, for instance, the joint is right up against the roof and can't be welded all the way around. Triangular gussets made of 1/8" plate and measuring 3" on the long (unwelded) side will do the trick and will give the chassis cert tech a warm, fuzzy feeling.

Richard: I have the luxury of a body in pieces. I have the original top and firewall, all the other panels are new. So , I'm just clamping them in place so I can get all the tubes tacked in place, then I plan to take the body panels off so I can weld all the joints 100% then put the body together around the chassis permanently. I still plan to use gussets where they're called for also.

It's hard to tell from the photo, but make sure the back of your helmet is in front of the B-bar. Just more of the "being in the box" stuff.

The seat is just resting on the cross braces for now. Just trying to get a handle on halo height. I plan to put sliders on the seats (They are the double locking type) so the seat can be adjusted. Also plan to put adjustable back braces from the seat to the main hoop crossbar. Everyone says sliders are O.K. as long as they are the double locking type. Hope that's true. If not I'll have to replace them with solid brackets. I have tacked it place 1 1/4" crossbars from the rocker bar to the main frame rail to mount the seats to. Can the seat sliders be mounted to tabs welded to the 1 1/4" crossbars? Or, do I need to drill through the crossbar and weld a 3/8" I.D. pipe in the crossbar so the mounting bolts go through the crossbar?

Vegas: Yup, this is my first "Certified Cage " too. I'm learning allot. I enjoy puttin' the puzzle together. This is the fun part for me.

Richard and Pro Thanks for the great info your giving. I had no idea that inspections were that rigid. Thanks again.

Thanks for the info Richard. I think I'll print this post out and tape it to the wall for reference. I have the two tubes cut out of the car. Tuesday the new ones get here. As soon as I can get somebody to bend a new main hoop and windshield / roof bar I'll be back in business. (The seats have slots built in for the
crotch strap/lap belt/shoulder harness). Thanks again for the help.

BTW: This is a 7.50 Sec. Chassis, so I have a funny car cage to go in too. Don't know if that changes any seat belt locations. I'm assuming the belts would be in the same location to the driver no matter if it has a funny car cage or not.

Couple question again for Richard if you happen by. I got few tubes tacked in today, and it raised a couple questions. I don't see (or maybe I'm looking in the wrong place) any information about the height of the dash/lower windshield bar. If I put it right under the dash it may be a chin bruiser. I'd like to put it about an 1" or 2" or higher if allowed above the bottom of the dash. I have a clear straight shot between the two windshield / roof bars behind the dash.

Also, I don't see any rules / drawings detailing the (2) bars from the top rear halo back to the frame rails. Since that's outside the drivers' "box" can I assume that's up to me? I'm undecided between:

Top of the halo to the top of the back half rails
or
maybe running them all the way back like I have 1 mocked up in the pic.

The way I have them mocked up here would provide extra support for the back half rails and reinforcement for the parachute brackets? The short way would save about 5 lbs. per side.

Thanks again for your help
pro70z28

Originally posted by chevy 37
Richard and Pro Thanks for the great info your giving. I had no idea that inspections were that rigid. Thanks again.

when you gonna fly it is.

Originally posted by techinspector1

pro, to nail all this down for sure, please talk with your Division Tech Director, Ritch Bowers @ 765-689-8377. He should be available at that # Mon-Wed 9 A.M. to 5 P.M.

Richard:
Funny you should mention Ritch Bowers. I talked to Greg (Rt. 66 official) yesterday and he printed out the list of Central Division Chassis Inspectors. Ritch Bowers and Dave Luken are the 2 he circled as the guys best to talk to. Turns out there's an IHRA tech here in town too. "I did not know that". Got a few more tubes in today. I'll call Ritch tomorrow. Thanks