Thread: 2" roof cut

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I'm thinking of cutting my roof on my 37 2" in front and 1" in back. I've read up on this but still have
some questions since I've never done this before.

1. Do I have to brace the sides before I cut the top?

2. Does it matter where you start cutting first?

3. If I don't make my cut right, can I fill the gap with weld?

4. If I want to move the top forward, can I cut the roof so I can ex
pand it?

Just a few questions I need an answer on.

all things are better chopped!!!!

answers:

1. yes... brace door openings and rear of cab side-to-side.

2. no... but, it's better to make the upper cuts first and lift the lid off before making the lower cuts.

3. yes... just watch for weakening the area. If you park it shiny-side-down, we want you to walk away in one piece.

4. yes... before splitting the roof, add some bracing inside. The roof is super flimsy when it's off the body.


can I bring my Sawzall???

Before you chop a top, buy Tex Smith's book and read it from cover to cover at least twice. Then keep it on your workbench while you're working.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...614010-0014537

1. Do I have to brace the sides before I cut the top?

Absolutely. Not only that, but make sure the frame is solidly supported on jack stands. If the body is off the fram, make sure the body is firmly supported.

2. Does it matter where you start cutting first?

In my opinion, yes. Plan your cut so that you are removing a section where the posts and sheet metal are almost vertical.

3. If I don't make my cut right, can I fill the gap with weld?

To a certain extent, yes. However, it is not desirable to do that. Plan and make your cut very carefully with masking tape or scribed lines. If you take your time, you won't have to worry about this question.

4. If I want to move the top forward, can I cut the roof so I can ex
pand it?

If you mean cutting the roof from side to side and adding in a section, the answer is yes. However, make sure you make the cut in an area that will cause you the least amount of reshaping, and make sure it's braced. Bear in mind that a weld seam across a flat surface like a roof is one of the most difficult seams to do. They really take a lot of time and effort to "iron out."

Brace it till it won't even wiggle, then add a couple more braces. Everyone else gave you some real good advice. Have fun.

Thank you all for the info. Thats what I like about this club, everyone pitches in with answers. I think I'll start on a old section of roof before I do mine. That way if I goof up, I'll know what I did wrong.

One other thing that some suggest is to cut the entire rear window frame out as a solid piece, then weld it back in after the top is lowered. This allows you to use the stock glass and seal and keeps the original appearance of the rear window.

I have a recording of the Monstor Garage episode where they chopped and channeled a '54 Chevy. It shows some decent sequences of them bracing the body, removing the top, welding in a new roof section and also a new rear cowl. Not sure how much of it would transfer to your project but I would be happy to make a copy and send it to you.

I also ditto the advise on Tex Smith's book(s). I think your practice idea is a great one.

Good luck!

Pat

Somebody go check on Richard, I think he pegged his blood pressure again !!!!!!

Richard has choptopaphobia. There's no known cure, except for a ride in a chopped, slammed '34 lowboy. Richard . . . see me in about 6 months . . .

Richard, I take it that you were not to fond of the "Mole" then?