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Thread: rear end
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    mittycan's Avatar
    mittycan is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Feb 2005
    Location
    Munjor
    Car Year, Make, Model: 29 model A
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    2

    rear end

     



    Hello one and all

    I am building a 1930 model A. I have the front suspension done I put the axle ahead of the spring for that low, lean look. The problem with that is the fact that I now have 120 inches of wheelbase. Can I simply cut 12 inches off of the back end of the frame, relocate the rear crossmember and be home free? I am going to use the buggy spring in the rear. I will raise the member 8 inches so I can channel the body about 4 inches.

    I would appreciate any suggestions anyone out there has...Jim

  2. #2
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
    Henry Rifle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Apr 2004
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    Little Elm
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford Low Boy w/ZZ430 Clone
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    Jim,

    Not enough info. Is this full-fendered or a highboy?

    Here are some thoughts though.

    If you set the axle in front of the spring, it appears that all you have moved is the axle. If the radiator is still in the same place, then you can't move the firewall and still have room for the engine. That means the body can't move forward. If the body can't move forward and you move the axle, the wheels won't align with the body.

    That's just thinking out loud using what you supplied.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  3. #3
    Don Shillady's Avatar
    Don Shillady is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 29 fendered roadster
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    Are you using the Model-A axle? I guess now you have had to cut off the frame horns? Maybe you saved money this way, but today dropped axles are readily available. Anyway I suppose there are a lot of ways to do this and there have been many variations, but it is beyond me except to remind you that the frame width is tapered in the back and if you cut off the rear of the frame you will have to widen the remaining part or narrow the rear crossmember. I have a Brookville repro frame with a 4" drop Magnum axle and I only have about 4 1/2" of ground clearance which seems low to me. If you are lower than that road bumps may be a problem. Anyway if it is not too late I suggest you try a Magnum dropped axle and go back to the original spring setup. I am sorry to admit I have started several projects like this and ended up hauling away a pile of useless metal and that is one reason I am trying to build a replica Model-A to replace several I hacked up. One in particular was a '29 woodie wagon which I was going to put a custom plactic body on with a rear kickup in the frame but that just withered away because it was more than I could do so now I am sticking to parts I can buy and have been engineered to work. I know you want to be innovative and I guess you can find a number of T-front ends similar to yours, but once you cut off the rear of the frame there is an increased chance that you will end up with just pieces unless you are very clever. Just my opinion, but I found I could not always implement my ideas and so now I stick with trusted combinations that can be purchased. If someone else can say, "Oh Yeah, that is easy to fix.", then I yield to them, but maybe you should not cut further until you get some more opinions. Then there is the infamous issue of boxing an original frame and my position on that is you should box it. Well I am just answering to keep your thread going until somebody with more experience comes along.

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder
    Last edited by Don Shillady; 03-03-2005 at 08:13 PM.

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