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Thread: 33 ford pinch & stretch frame
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    gypsy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 33 ford hiboy 3 window
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    33 ford pinch & stretch frame

     



    anyone out there know how to stretch a 33 ford frame 6 to 8 inches and pinch it to place the rails inside the hood sides?

  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Wpuld depend on where you want to stretch and pinch it. First and foremost you will need a very sturdy chassis jig and all the correct measurements for the frame. First thing to do would be measure it from corner to corner in an X fashion and make sure it is square before you start. Figure out where and how much you want to pinch the frame, scribe a line on the table at that point, then move the fixtures holding the rails in the amount you want it pinched. If you have not done considerable chassis fabrication, you may be better to farm it out to a competent chassis shop. Then the obvious question, why the stretch???
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  3. #3
    gypsy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    dave i would like to pinch and stretch it forward of the firewall, want to use indy style front end with inboard shocks

  4. #4
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    vara4 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Dave I don't want to steel this thread but I got a question.
    Do use magnets to hold your corners or a type of corner vise.

    Thanks ~ Vegas ~

  5. #5
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Kewl setup, Gypsy. I put a Heidt's set up on a deuce frame, works great!! Kind of what I figured you had in mind. Go to the Wescott site, they have the measurement for the '34 frames on there. Set your jig up to the stock specs with it very secure to the table from the firewall aft. I would place fixtures on the table from the firewall forward, about 12" apart and placed on the outside of the rails. Remove the front x-member and began squeezing the rails equal amounts on both rails by shimming and block between the fixture and the rail. When you get the amount of squeeze you need for the new front x-member, tack the x-member in place and check your frame measurements. Be sure to move both sides in equal amounts, work slowly, measure twice, cut once.

    Vara, I made my own corner clamps (I assume your are talking about rectangular or square tubing) using 2" X 2" square stock and the appropriate sized C clamp. I fasten these to the table top by either a bolt from the bottom or a tack weld. I hate it when things move around on my jigs !!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  6. #6
    gypsy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Dave, i understand the pinching part but how and where should i cut the frame to lengthen it?

  7. #7
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    hmmmm. Haven't messed with a '34 for awhile. The deuce I did I cut and stretched approximately where the motor mounts would weld in to the frame. I chose this spot because there was little taper on the rails, therefore easier to form the stretch section on the brake. I fishplated over the joints on the inside of the rails, then welded in full length boxing plates. The car has been up and running for about 3 years, no problems and handles like a slot car!!! The car also had a Heidt's Independent Rear Suspension.
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  8. #8
    gypsy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    dave, did you straight cut the c channel frame or did you z cut it?

  9. #9
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Just a straight cut, fish plated and boxed on the inside
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

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