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Thread: Need info on S-10 frame under a 52 F1
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    lakota is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 52 Ford F-1, 327 Chevy, S-10 frame
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    Need info on S-10 frame under a 52 F1

     



    I just discovered several hairline cracks in my frame caused by flexing beyond it's limits, plus other problems with the front axle. A friend, (works in a frame shop), suggested I swap it out to an Chevy S-10 frame. He says the short bed has about the same wheelbase and width as the 52 Ford F1 frame.

    What modifications, beside the body mounts and inner fender panels, will I have to make?

    Will I have to change the rear end?

    will I have to make any changes to the front end?

    Are there any web sites with pictorial info?
    52 Ford F-1, 327 Chevy, S-10 frame

    My website:
    www.geocities.com/lakota_circle_dancer/swap1

  2. #2
    treekiller's Avatar
    treekiller is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1934 Schwinn
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    not sure about the 52' Ford.
    sounds like it's time to get the tape measure out and go to checking things out . but I've seen a few chevys put on s-10 frames and they look good but, the owners weren't happy after ,
    because then, they own an s-10. If it's just a cruiser then go for it.

    And if you do a search here at CHR you should come up with a few things to read that would help you out. good luck.
    "Whad'ya want for nuth'N, ..............aaa,rrrrrubber biscuit... ?"

    "bad spellers of the word untie ! "

    If your wondering how I'm doing I'm > " I'm still pick'N up the shinny stuff and passing open windows "

  3. #3
    Mike P's Avatar
    Mike P is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 68 Ply Valiant, 83 El Camino
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    If you go the frame change route, (even if you stick another stock frame under it) you should check with your DMV to see what you will need to do about the VIN. On your 52 the vin is located in 2 places, a tag screwed to the inside of the glovebox door and on the top front of the right side frame rail. Whiule this might not be a problem as long as you own the truck, it could turn into a real problem if you ever decide to sell it.
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  4. #4
    lakota is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 52 Ford F-1, 327 Chevy, S-10 frame
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    Thanks for the quick response guys.

    First off, today I went to the junk yard (yes, the junk yard is open on Sunday), and I spent the day measuring an '86 S-10 short bed frame. The wheelbase and width are almost the same as the 52 F1 frame. Also, I don't have to buy an IFS, power streering, power brakes, and front disc brakes. It all comes in one neat little package.
    From what I've read in the threads, it appears that the S-10 frame has become a universal swap...it'll just about fit under anything.
    And as far as the VIN numbers...It's already registered to me and if I make any major body/engine/frame changes, it has to be forwarded with bills of sale/repair to the DMV (DPS here in TX) and it will be noted on new registration before any sales.

    After doing the measurements, and the math, I discovered:

    The S-10 frame will fit with a little trimming and I will have to fabricate cab mounts. Same with the bed, and fenders.

    My 327SBC and 350 trans will drop right in with new mounts.

    I may have to do some McGiver ism to connect the steering box to the column, but I was expecting that.

    My only concern now is if the S-10 rear end can handle the 327/350.

    Please understand...This is not a Ford restoration, it's a hot rod, so everything will be upgraded or improved for safety, better handling, and comfort. Yes, it will be a cruiser, or daily driver. The only thing I'll be hauling around town is my scrawny butt, or maybe the wife will haul her cute butt, and some groceries.

    rrrrubber biscuits???? sure, eat 'em whenever my daughter cooks. hehehe
    52 Ford F-1, 327 Chevy, S-10 frame

    My website:
    www.geocities.com/lakota_circle_dancer/swap1

  5. #5
    Hazardous's Avatar
    Hazardous is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 52 chevy 3600
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    it depends on the rear if its a 91 and up v6 rear it will hold around 300hp from 91 and down it has smaller rear internals

  6. #6
    lakota is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 52 Ford F-1, 327 Chevy, S-10 frame
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    Hey hazardous,

    I believe it was you that had a post about putting an S-10 under a 3600. Did you read my reply? I've been doing some reading on an S-10/SBC swap site, lot's of good info.

    www.v8s10.org/forum/

    The 83-90 rear will hold up as long as you don't go big rubber and put your foot through the floor from a standstill. But you're right, the 91 and newer has better ratios, and it's stronger. I'll probably end up changing mine at a later date. It would be simple to just change out the carrier, but from what I understand the axle splines are different.
    52 Ford F-1, 327 Chevy, S-10 frame

    My website:
    www.geocities.com/lakota_circle_dancer/swap1

  7. #7
    Hazardous's Avatar
    Hazardous is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 52 chevy 3600
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    yes i was and yes i did if you have any ? on s10 susp let me know i can help with most of it like if you want to run air susp or hydros as for the v8 part its not to bad to do i have done it
    or you can emial me @ HazardousCustoms@msn.com

  8. #8
    lakota is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 52 Ford F-1, 327 Chevy, S-10 frame
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    Already got my 327 engine in the frame. Now I need another 350 trans with a 9" tailshaft. Then comes the hard part, setting the cab, bed, and fenders on the frame. I believe I'll trim the cab and fenders and channel it down over the frame to give a lower look. Then it's many trips to the junk yard, looking for this piece to fit that piece. But I will keep you in mind if I have questions.
    52 Ford F-1, 327 Chevy, S-10 frame

    My website:
    www.geocities.com/lakota_circle_dancer/swap1

  9. #9
    Hazardous's Avatar
    Hazardous is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 52 chevy 3600
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    for the cab you can make new rails under it out of 2x3 1/4" stock from right before the the cab mounts and run it to the begining of the bed and it will drop the cab with out having to cut into the floor so it will give you more leg rooom if you are planning to chop the top and when you open the doors you will not see a step from where you brought the floor up . and on the front cut the frome horns and drop them and put in gussests in and it will drop the front fendersto met the cab for the bed raise the floor so the bed will match the rest
    do a google search on stock floor body drops .if this makes no sence

  10. #10
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hazardous, that's some real good advice
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  11. #11
    Hazardous's Avatar
    Hazardous is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 52 chevy 3600
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    thanks been building lowrider s10s for a while closed my last shop about 7months ago it was to small trying to start a new shop with more room

  12. #12
    lakota is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 52 Ford F-1, 327 Chevy, S-10 frame
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    Hazardous, I'm not going to lower it that much. I'm not into decapitating ants. Kidding...Stepping or Z ing the frame was not in my plans. I was just going to drop the cab down on the frame (1" to 1 1/2") to give it a channeled look, then go with dropped spindles and blocks to get it closer to the ground. The stock S-10 frame is about 6" lower than the stock 52 Ford frame. That puts my fenders and running board about 6" above the ground.
    52 Ford F-1, 327 Chevy, S-10 frame

    My website:
    www.geocities.com/lakota_circle_dancer/swap1

  13. #13
    Hazardous's Avatar
    Hazardous is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    i would buy new dropped springs for the rear they ride smoother then blocks and get some nice drop shocks to go with them nitro drop shocks are nice and so are toxic shocks

  14. #14
    lakota is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 52 Ford F-1, 327 Chevy, S-10 frame
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    Good idea... It's a shame that I have to pull a tarp over this project, and bank all my cash until August. My in-laws are moving from Vegas to Texas, to live with me permanently, and I get to pay for all of it all...Lucky me. Are you ready for this...They want me to 'hot rod' their electric carts (Rascals). They're complaining that the carts are too slow. I can see it all now....

    I'll be bailing their butts out of jail, and their BBC powered Rascal carts mounted on shortened, Z'ed, and lowered S-10 frames, out of impound, because they were doing wheel stands and racing down the isles of Wal-Mart.

    OK, back to reality...Come September I'll be able to get back to working on the F1. Thank God it stays warm here in San Antonio until mid December and winter is only a few weeks long. I've been at this for about a year and my biggest problem has been having to start over. I was all set up to use the existing frame, now that's out. Designing and set up of Toyota steering, that won't be needed, Buying a newer rear end and brakes for a 9", a waste of time and money. So I'll be starting from square one again. Only this time I'll keep the mods simple, easy and cheap.
    52 Ford F-1, 327 Chevy, S-10 frame

    My website:
    www.geocities.com/lakota_circle_dancer/swap1

  15. #15
    Hazardous's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 52 chevy 3600
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    good luck man

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