Thread: Carb Rebuilding Simplified

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I have been rebuilding carborators since I was 14, but actually it is something I do about once a decade. :-) The fortunate thing is that I started young enough that I wasn't intimidated by the process.

Most instructions tell you to completely dissassemble the carb and then soak the pieces in a solvent. This is the best way to
get all the air passages clean, but it creates a real challenge when you go to reassemble it. Your instructions will cover
several variations and show a lot of parts that are not on yours. Chances are also likely that you have a part that doesn't resemble the one in the illustration.

Rather than taking the whole carb apart, break it down into simple steps. First clean the outside of the carborator as well
as you can. Put it in a shallow pan to catch the run off carb cleaner. You can use this again. You will need a small brush or
two, a rag, and maybe a screwdriver if it is real grungy. You won't be able to reach all the areas around the choke and linkage, but you can get to them later.

You need to remove the choke and throttle linkage, but that cannot be done all at once. Do what you can at each stage and set the parts in separate piles, or soak them in separate jars. The parts look a lot alike, so keeping them separate reduces the
confusion when you put it back together.

Next remove the top of the carborator body. Clean it thoroughly. Now check what parts need replacing, (compare them with your
rebuild kit.) Right now, replace any parts needed and do not remove anything you do not have to. This is the essence of keeping it simple.

When you get into the center of the carb, you will not be able to replace everything at once. That's because you still have to remove and reassemble the bottom section. As you dissassemble it, pay careful attention to where the parts came from and how they went together. Look at the diagrams in your instructions and make notes where needed. Again, clean everything and
don't remove anything you don't need to.

Remove the bottom section, clean it and change any parts necessary.

Before putting it back together, you need to check that all your air passages are clean. This is one of the main reasons you
rebuild a carb, so you can't take any short cuts with it. The straight ones you can hold up to a light and look thorough
them. On the others, take a can of compressed air and put the little plastic tube on one end. Check to make sure air is
coming out the other end. If any are plugged, spray them with carb cleaner and then blow them out with compressed air again.

Running a wire through them is not recommended, but use your own judgement.

Now you can begin reassembling it. The trick is how much attention you paid when taking it apart. There are not a lot of
parts, so it isn't too challenging. As you reassemble it, rembember to make the necessary adustments, like float height.

The process is actually fairly simple. It can be done in an afternoon and without any special tools. The important thing is
to do it when your head is clear and you have a good attention span. It is also helpful to choose a time when you can do it
all in one sitting and with minimal interruptions.

Well done, 68Gem

The most important tool I own when rebuilding a carb is a digital camera.

If I don't know the carb like the back of my hand I take a low res shot at each step of the disassembly process, really helps when you are trying to figure out which way that little dogleg piece of choke linkage or a fast idle weight goes. Save it to the hard drive for the next time.

Cheers, Mark

Doing small engine work I have set up a camcorder and the audio allows me to describe what I see or do.

Thanks for the tips on using a camera. I can see where that would be useful other places as well.

Yep without a camera or good memory you can be up sh-- creek. I once rebuilt a rochester 4 barrel sitting on my engine in weather about 30 out and had it half together when my friendly cat jumped up and the parts went every which way. Needless to say, I had to buy some parts I couldn't find. My wife was wondering why I was out at 10:00 at night with a drop cord sitting on my engine. Maybe I was crying

I rebuild two and sometimes three carburetors during a weeks time. I never seem to get the same style in one batch. I do both suggestions above, with seperating everything out in sections, and taking pictures of before, during, and after. The camera is a huge help when it comes to trying to remember exactly which hole, or exactly which way a particular piece on linkage went. Most of the carburetors I work on were made in the 20's thru the 40's, so clear manufacturers pictures are not to be found. The two I did today were from a 1932 Buick, and a 1938 Seagraves. Believe me, those pictures helped quit a bit.