Thread: panhard bar

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Yup, all my heroes!!!! Man, wish I could have been running with them!!!!! (Even if it would probably have been half a lap behind)

FMX.....I don't think your question at the end was really answered. Mounting the brackets outside the frame if there is room is not a problem. The bar will be longer and better as noted. Just make them strong enough to carry the load the bar puts on them. Not hard to do, especially on a street rod. It's hard to put more than 1 g side load on them. The tire just won't support any more. There is no trickery here..it is just a common geometry problem. If you are not and eng or math instructor just follow the advice, and don't worry about the theory....parallel to the rear end c line or ground and you are in business. Most of the time they wind up being above the c line but still ok. I favor the panhard over the track bar as it allows the rear end to pivot on the bearings freely but in line. The track bar can have a bind by geometry even with pivots.
As someone noted you only get a 1/4 inch side movement. Even good leaf springs are more than this.

bentwings, thanks a lot man, you ansered just what I was looking for. Now for my last or second to last question ( I will ask the other one tomarrow after this one is answered) is the track bars you are talking about the traction bars or is there a difference. I see there are things like locar(sp?) and such that have traction bars and all you can use and I am looking for something for my truck to add on in a few months to handle better (66 Ford) but it's an everyday driver and will see a little strip time once in a while for fun until my 48 is done.
Not trying to get off topic or nothing, I am hoping it's ok to ask this even though it's not my thread.

Thanks.

Shawn,

A track bar (diagonal link) is not the same as a traction bar. A track bar is installed from the front of one ladder bar (or 4-link) to the rear of the other one, forming a couple of triangles that prevent side-to-side motion of the rear axle. Go to this page http://www.chassisengineering.com/rearsuspension.html and look at the last photo at the bottom.

Ok I get what you mean now Henry. Thanks for the bit of info you gave me. Would a traction bar be a waste of my money you think? My dad said he used to put them on his cars like his Nova, Trans Am and stuff but not sure if they are outdated and all.

I'm late.
I went with a wishbone track locator. I started out with a diagonal link, but the frame rails are so narrow I didn't like the looks of the diagonal link angle.

Thats my problem my rails are 20" apart ?

With the shocks unhooked I can move the rear housing from laying on the jig to tight up against the frame rails (About 12") with no binding and no lateral movement of the rear housing at all. And with the extra mounting point of the wishbone over the diagonal link it should handle some abuse.

The 2 front points mount to the 4 link. Like Jack said they are supported by the four link brackets not the joints. The rear joint on the rear housing is mounted horizontally to handle the lateral force of the rear end. I've seen some mounted vertically, but that seems like it would put undo strain on the hiem joint.

nice car pro70. I have a similar rear susp in my 41 Willys. Mine is a streetrod...big tires narrow frame, panhard bar,and true 4 link. Works just fine. I can set it up to ride and handle on the street and flat dig in at the track. 2 different setups easy to change.
I think the panhard bar has been flogged for now.
FMX is asking about "traction bars" This is actually a trade mark name from the early 60's. Probably the first marketed traction "device" I think they were about 45-50 bucks back in 1960. About a couple hundered in todays $$$ They worked pretty well at the time. Their purpose was to tame wheel hop...which they did. However as far as weight transfer etc they were still not what we have today with 4 links. We use a more modern form of them on our diesel trucks as the Cummins will just wrap up the whole rear end when towing. We can spin all four rear tires pulling a trailer. In the weather it is really tough sometimes getting started. With the traction bars the rear end is stabilized and at least there is no spring wrap and wheel hop.

My opinion for street use the slapper bar is out of place the ride is just too harsh. You simply can't run around toasting the tires at every corner or you will only dreaming about it in jail. So the traction bar with pivots at each end as closely aligned with the suspension (leaf springs) pivots as possible is a good compromise. No wheel hop and improved traction. No rear end bind if done properly. If you can stand the rattle I suppose the slipper or floating housing is ok but subject to a lot of wear on the street. If I had leaf springs I would do the traction bars and a good limited slip or locker. I use a locker and it clicks a bit but it's part of the street scene haha. same with my noisy gear drive. Eventually there will be a locker in the truck too when the present limited slip is used up.

There has been books written about this stuff so condensing it here is tough to do in a few words.
bentwings

I thought you guys might like to see this....

http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZrodQ5fplans

Originally posted by techinspector1
I thought you guys might like to see this....

http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZrodQ5fplans

That's one of those "why didn't I think of that" things. Only investment is some drawing time, printer & paper.

Yep. With all his equipment, Brian Rupnow could take advantage of a business opportunity like this too. Hey Brian, are ya listenin'?

Originally posted by techinspector1
Yep. With all his equipment, Brian Rupnow could take advantage of a business opportunity like this too. Hey Brian, are ya listenin'?

There's plans available to buy. There's places to buy redi-made parts. We should start a business selling jigs.

....... That is sumbudie should .............. I need another venture like I need a hole in the head.

I've thought a lot about that in the past, Gary. For instance, a jig to build your own independent front suspension from scratch. Make it adjustable to accomodate different roll centers, different camber gain, etc., etc. Better yet, sell the plans to build the jig.

Bentwings, thanks AGAIN for the info. So you say that I should go with the traction bars and put a detroit locker in the 66 Ford truck? I wan't it to handle good on the street and hook the tires better. Right now the tires spin like crazy even when I don't try to spin them. There are times when I am already rolling at about 5 MPH or so and gas it and it won't do nothing or just churp but other than that they try to spin like crazy.