Thread: Busted Motor Mount Question

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Hello everyone, Im a newby here and pretty much a newby to the rod scene. Im reading everything I can get my grubby little richard beaters on and hope to get up to speed on everything soon.

Anyway, here is my question, please take it easy on me cause Im more of a motorcycle dude and this is my first "real" rod. My 68 bug I did about 6 years ago doesnt really count I think.

Ok, I have a 29 Form model A closed cab pick up with a 66 vett 327 with 3 rochester dbl berrals and ht350 auto trans. She has a 65-66 mustang rear end (8") with same drums in the rear. Up front is stock dropped modal a with 64 econovan drums. She has been chopped 3". the frame is pretty much stock model a.

I love this truck and want to make her all she can be with out going totally frame off.

ok, I have a busted motor mount that I need to fix. I am hoping that since this is my first rod you old tymers can help a newby out.

What would be the best way to fix this?
Do I need to pull the motor or can I just use a floor jack to get the motor to a medium bias pull the mount or just weld it in place?

I want to box both sides to aviod future issues. Is boxing the mounts the best way to aviod future issues?

I have attached some photos for you to look at. Any suggestions are welcome. Like I said Im a newby and want to do this right the first time.

Thanx guys.
-jes

Passengers side busted!


Passengers side busted!


the other side thats not busted.

welome to the site king jess

well if the mount isnt too tough to remove i would maybe push it into place where it sits and tack it, brace up the motor good and then take the mount off and weld it up good .
id fab a piece of steelplate that would fit crossways inside the mount nice and tight and put it right in the middle and weld it on both sides , basicly box only one side but put it in the middle of the mount
that should give more than enough strength

Kinda liike an I or T if looking down on it?

Ill do just that, I was thinking "How the hell can I get to the bolts to mount it if both sides are boxed?" hhaah

Ill to the T thing for sure. Ill raise up the motor and then tak the moutn where it should be and then pull it out and weld itup real good then put it back in and do the other side.

Do you think theother side needs it since all the torq on the motor seems to push to the right?

thanx for the help..
-jes

i am a overkill kind of guy i am building a t bucket with a 500 caddy . id do both sides when its out and you will nver have to worry about it again

Cool, Ill do that. I amd going to try to lift hte motor up hi enuff to get a tak on the broken one and then weld it up real good. If not Ill have ot make a new one.

After one side is fixed and back in ill yank the other side and repeate. I just hope I can fit a floor jack under the truck now.. haha

I think I got it now.. No need to pull the motor I dont think. Just one side at a time ya know..


is there anything I need to check to make sure the motor is level or anything like that? I mean is it a major issue if it end up lower on side then the other or somthing?
-jes

if its ok now prior to the mount breaking welding the bracket back where it was and reinforcing it should not make a difference

wow what a pain in the arse that was! irs about 9:45 pm and Iv been hot at it for about 4 and a half hours.

I got the headers off and jacked up the motor then braced it with a jack stand. No problem. Well the motor mount was compleatly broken all the way thru! As soon as I got to looking I wiggled the mount a bit and a nice chunk fell off! that was bitchin. there is no way to really fix it on the truck so I got the pull it all apart and remove the whole cross member. not a good time cause I donthave the cherry picker or whatever they are called to help pull the motor so I just had to stick a jack under onesidee, jack it up best I could put a stand under it, repeate on the other side so I could clear the crossmember! Pain in the arse. Good news is its out. My pal Matt who is an Ag macanic is going to take it to his shop tomorrow and weld it up with fat arse beads.

I also tore out the interior compleatly and tomorrow night ill start cleaning out all the crap that was in there after all the padding was yanked. Looks like old carpet padding with fire retardent on it. Not a bad job but not good enuff for me. Ill replace the carpet also. Im gonna use Dynamatt unless anyone knows f better stuff?

anyway, I also indexed my new plugs. not a big deal but that took some time too. Its all good. My radiator is back to good to. All boiled and painted up and ready to put back on as soon as I get the cross member back on..

I love it!
-jes

New motor mounts are only $10 each, why not do it right? By the way, loosen the tranny mount when jacking up the motor to keep from fraggin it.

hey tech take a look at the last pic of kingjes's motor mount , isnt there a tubing cross member welded to the lower plate of the motor mount??
i never noticed it when ilookd at the pics before.

yes it has a tubing cross member welded to it. This made is difficltu to get to it.
If I cold buy a motor mount for a 29 model a that would work with a 66 vett 327 I would be all over it hahha but i dont think they can pull em off the shelf.. hopfully im wrong.
-jes

yeah i dont know how hard it would be now to get a new motor mount there and then you would have to weld it to your crossmember setup anyways.
i didnt realize it was all welded together.
up here in the great white north a 10.00 u.s. motor mount will cost a lot more than trying to weld the old one up. hope it goes together good and stays that way

It should, my buddy is a cert'd welder and I asked that he do the in braket inside like the T we were talking about.

I have a question about the trans, I didnt loosen it up when I jacked up the motor to get the mount out. Is it to late or can I losen them now and be OK?

What could the hose up? It was tight but not too tigh, I moved the motor up just a scooch then used my hammer to get the mounts and cross member out.. I dont think anything got messed up but Im new at this so I could have.. is there a way to check and make sure?
thanx
-jes

if its just a regular rubber mount there is some play and movement in it , the reason to loosen it , i would think would be to not damage the mount or tranny housing if jacked up a long way. i would think your ok if you just lifted the motor up enough to get the mount out and thats it.
tech should chime in on this if hes out there as he has been at this for a lot longer than i have.

a question to you kingjes you say in your ouriginal post drums on front and back. how is your braking with drums front and back.
the bucket i am building is kind of a different set up. i took the drivetrain from a nova front suspension and rear springs,rearend and made the rest from there. the nova only had drums on the front so i was kind of worried about stopping this thing. when i was young i h ad the same hind of nova and it actually stopped ok. i think with being quite a bit lighter stopping it shouldnt be a problem.

Good news. I was stressed.. I only had to move it up apx 1.5 - 2 inches to move the mount out and back to gett it out of the frame. I was worriedabout my distibutor but it looks like i have about 1/2 inch play there...

I guess Ill know the first time i drive it if somthing busted inthe trans huh.
-jes