Wow, lot's of good info guys! Thank You.

Bob, there's a beefy strap between the block and the chassis. Is that a good enough ground? Also, wouldn't a ground issue be consistant ?

Ronnie, I've thought about the remote solenoid but since it's a T, everything is exposed. I'm trying to keep the clutter down. This may be a last resort if I can't get anything else to work. Header wrap is the same issue. Since I already have a shield on order, that'll be my first remedy.

Streets: Actually, my headers are pretty darn close to the starter. It's got some of those "block hugger" style headers. They're close enought that I think I'm gonna have to pull the header on that side if the motor to get the starter out.

C-Line: I agree that the gear reduction would be the best long term solution. If the quick fix doesn't get it, that's where I'm going.

THE SAGA CONTINUES: I've been driving the car a lot 'cuz my daily driver is in the shop. Yesterday, I ran some errands with it. At the 1st two stops, I had a hard time getting started... it would always click and if I tried several times, eventually it would fire. Drove 45 minutes to stop 3. When I tried to start... no clicks no nothing though my Voltmeter showed that the battery was taking a load. After messing with it for a 1/2 hour and not getting anywhere. I started asking around was able to borrow an insulated screw. First I shorted across the "big" terminals and the starter spun right up. Then I shorted from battery terminal to the solenoid terminal. Starter engaged and fired right up. I went back home and grabbed an old screwdriver so I could do this again if needed. The kicker is that since then, I haven't had the problem once. It always fires right up.

I dunno...