Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Newbie Guide to Rattles and Squeaks
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1
    Was_II's Avatar
    Was_II is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Seattle
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1978 Mustang II
    Posts
    133

    Newbie Guide to Rattles and Squeaks

     



    So I've been getting the old beast running nicely, pretty much got things stopped from smoking and leaking, and now it starts regularly. And it looks fairly cool . . . from a distance. . . .

    But it sounds like it's about to fall apart. Especially on the piece-o-crap, pothole-scarred roads we have here in downtown Seattle.

    Where do you even begin when chasing down rattles, squeaks, etc.? Can anyone recommend a site / book / etc.? I seriously don't have a clue where to start, other than to start with the area making the most noise and work down the list from there.

    I think a thread on "Rattles and Squeaks 101" could help someone doing a search. Anyone care to impart some wisdom to us newbies?
    Dual Quad Tunnel Rammed "Are you INSANE?" 5.0L H.O. '78 Mustang II

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/803178

  2. #2
    53fatfndr's Avatar
    53fatfndr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Caldwell
    Car Year, Make, Model: '53 Ford F-100
    Posts
    211

    A good stereo system will take your mind off of the squeeks and rattles

    I would start to pinpoint the general area from where the sounds are coming from and go from there. It's hard to tell what it is without hearing it. Could be anything, but shouldn't be too hard to figure out, at least I wouldn't think so

  3. #3
    deltahomer's Avatar
    deltahomer is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Cape Canaveral
    Car Year, Make, Model: 56 Chevy 210
    Posts
    64

    rattles

     



    I went through the same kind of deal and its going to take a good friend who is willing to drive while you work in the car. The cops wont buy you were still wearing your seat belt when they see your feet up in the headliner either ! ! Good luck. and get it done soon or it will nag you to death. Later DH

  4. #4
    Was_II's Avatar
    Was_II is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Seattle
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1978 Mustang II
    Posts
    133

    Originally posted by 53fatfndr

    I would start to pinpoint the general area from where the sounds are coming from and go from there. It's hard to tell what it is without hearing it. Could be anything,
    Not so much "anything," as "everything."

    I put washers under the block-off plates for the cut-outs. That helped.
    Dual Quad Tunnel Rammed "Are you INSANE?" 5.0L H.O. '78 Mustang II

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/803178

  5. #5
    Mike P's Avatar
    Mike P is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SW Arizona
    Car Year, Make, Model: 68 Ply Valiant, 83 El Camino
    Posts
    3,834

    It's a Mustang II what did you expect

    Seriously, you picked a hatch back,T -Top car that has a huge amount of body flex. Even just my Hatch back (non T-Top car) Cobra II was a nighmare. Here are some things that should get you started.

    Try to tighten up the body flex as much as possible. If you haven't already, re-install the unbder the hood T-Top braces. If they won't fit around the tunnel ram make some (check the engine compartment of my white coupe in my photo gallery, it shows a set I made for mine.

    SuB-Frame connectors (they show up new on E Bay) will also go a long way in helping plus will help the car launch harder.

    Get as much vibration out of the car as possible. A big one is out of ballance tires.

    Next check the the door hinge pins, if they are loose, put new bushings in. Also chect the door striker bolts. They are supposed to have a plastic sleeve around the shaft where the latch hooks. If they are gone replace the striker pins.

    Unless you already have, install new weather stripping on the doors, hatch and T Tops. A big squeek on the hatch can come from the hatch shifting back and forth and the latch rubbing on the U shaped hook it latches to.

    The dashes on these cars are also a big problem with squeeks and rattles. Make sure all the dash screws are in place and tight. Also remove the top to the dash (There are screws under the foward lip of the dash pad, and should be a couple in the defroster vents. If the car has AC make sure the ducts are tight and look for anything that can feel loose (some thin foam can work wonders in seperating ratteling parts. Make sure the speaker mount is in place, as it also secures the top of the dash and keeps it from moving.

    Finally remove the door pannels, and look for loose componets. also check the little adjustable "rub blocks", (an adjustable bracket with a piece of rubber/insulation) are in place and snug against the window.

    Once all thats done you should have narrowed it down to maybe just a couple that should be easier to find.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink