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07-04-2005 05:37 PM #31
I have a lincoln ark welder with a gererator. I dont have a mig welder yet. I assume that is what you are reffering to. I will check out the lincoln site.
sanpedro
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07-04-2005 08:51 PM #32
Flangin panels ,unless ur goin for the don riddler award flangins fine.Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
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07-04-2005 08:53 PM #33
Heres the bottom,new inner and outer rockers new floor pans ,both sides ,new cowel both sides and the lid was cut off and reinstalled .Last edited by shawnlee28; 07-04-2005 at 08:56 PM.
Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
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07-04-2005 10:51 PM #34
San see those lines in the floor of that pic? That is the bead roll you asked me about. Like he said too, flanging is fine, butting it up, etc to me takes a tad more time to do to get it all really straight etc if you know what I mean.www.streamlineautocare.com
If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!
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07-04-2005 11:14 PM #35
Originally posted by pat mccarthy
if you are doing a car that you do not want is it to look like it hase been fixed ???.butt weld is it .dose not matter this is the best it s a butt weld. a car with over laps look fixed why not make it look like it was not been touch cars done rigth you get more $$ than some thing not done rigth if you car got hint and you fixed it do you whant to see were it was fixed ?good metal man can fix some thing and you wont know how bad it was.
Pat have you got any trade secrets on panel prep before welding and what type of tools are you using for flattening the weld and final panel prep. Thanks S"aerodynamics are for people who cant build engines"
Enzo Ferrari
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07-05-2005 07:12 AM #36
Not sayin buttin the panels is not correct ,it is the best way,but for the floor on a non show car the lap is fine and looks good.Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
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07-05-2005 07:15 AM #37
Its ur call to but or to lap that iS THE QUESTION.Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
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07-05-2005 07:21 AM #38
N/MIts gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
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07-06-2005 01:04 PM #39
THanks guys. I think I am going to lap this time since I am still in the learning stage. THat way I don end up cutting too much or sometihing like that.
Sanpedro
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07-09-2005 12:22 AM #40
Sanpedro, if you plan or would like to get good at welding and start doing all the welding yourself then do this... Find a local metal manufacturer (sp) and ask them if they have any scrap pieces laying around you can have of any kind of tubing, sheet metal, square tubing, etc and they should have some pretty good sized pieces they will give you. Take them home and practice welding. Practice welding upside down, sideways, different angles, etc. Before you know it you will be doing good and have good control over the heat of the weld by distance of gun, etc. Then, find lincoln welder companies site and they have plans on how to make/weld your own welding table and some other useful things.
Good luck and have fun!www.streamlineautocare.com
If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!
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07-09-2005 01:02 AM #41
Originally posted by southerner
Now when you say you want the job to look neat and tidy, you butt weld. So what kind of welder are you using ? Is it a Mig, Tig or gas ? I have used the gas for panel welding and found that you get a lot of heat distortion and you have to use the hammers a lot. Mig is okay as it is cooler than gas and is faster, but I tend to find it is a very hard weld. for those of you that can do it, the Tig welding process is the best of all, you get a thin bead of weld, minimal distortion and the weld is easy to work and if you do a stitch weld over a long panel, leaving time for the job to cool you get a real tidy job.
Pat have you got any trade secrets on panel prep before welding and what type of tools are you using for flattening the weld and final panel prep. Thanks S
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07-09-2005 01:59 AM #42
sorry i can see the over lap dose it look good yes .do not call me s.o.b it is a nice job .did you try to hide it yes some times you have to over lap .but the more you butt weld the better you get at it and if time is a eschew. then you do not have the correct hobbie i can butt weld a pach in as fast as you can over lap no seam s to hide. the way i do it is the rigth way for me you do the job the way you want .but do not kid your self when the job is done you have a lip. the butt weld is way . now how do i do this i started body work when i was 11 years old and i am 42 and old fart? i cant tell you how long it will take for you to get the butt weld down. to do the job you need cut off and a good steel scribe body hammers and a welder tig or a mig it will not take much heat if it 0.30 thick steel it will take 30.amps. make the welds as small as you can ,to blend the welds i like 60 grit. to cut the top of the weld down with hard grinding stone do not cut to deep watch the heat
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07-09-2005 08:12 AM #43
I have been looking real hard at the Lincoln 100 mig welder 110 volt. It does not come with the gas attcjhments but they can be added. Is gas something that I should go ahead and get to make this project easier or is it wsomething I can wait on?
sanpedro
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07-09-2005 08:45 AM #44
this is a good welder for sheet metal. the small welder work good for thin steel if you are working on thick stuff like frames get somthing bigger miller or lincoln i have used many types they all work good the gas is for shied gas this is the way to go on thin sheet metal so this is not used on flux wire
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07-09-2005 11:03 PM #45
Yes Pat is right, you need gas.www.streamlineautocare.com
If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!
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