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Thread: Body Prep, panel welding etc help needed
          
   
   

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  1. #46
    Lucky13 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Go as big as you can afford. You can always turn the heat down, but I find the more I weld the bigger and more different the jobs I need my mig for. I bought a Lincoln 135+. I love it, but would have gone bigger if I would have had the money and the 220 to support it.
    Lucky 13

  2. #47
    southerner's Avatar
    southerner is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Originally posted by pat mccarthy
    sorry i can see the over lap dose it look good yes .do not call me s.o.b it is a nice job .did you try to hide it yes some times you have to over lap .but the more you butt weld the better you get at it and if time is a eschew. then you do not have the correct hobbie i can butt weld a pach in as fast as you can over lap no seam s to hide. the way i do it is the rigth way for me you do the job the way you want .but do not kid your self when the job is done you have a lip. the butt weld is way . now how do i do this i started body work when i was 11 years old and i am 42 and old fart? i cant tell you how long it will take for you to get the butt weld down. to do the job you need cut off and a good steel scribe body hammers and a welder tig or a mig it will not take much heat if it 0.30 thick steel it will take 30.amps. make the welds as small as you can ,to blend the welds i like 60 grit. to cut the top of the weld down with hard grinding stone do not cut to deep watch the heat
    Yep thanks for those tips pat
    "aerodynamics are for people who cant build engines"

    Enzo Ferrari

  3. #48
    sanpedro's Avatar
    sanpedro is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    okay, guys!
    I have started to weld in my floorpan. and in some areas where I have grinded down the weld I have tiny pin holes. Can I just use por 15 on it or should I weld over it again?

    I have my lincoln set on 1 for the amps and about 2 for the wire speed.

    Also ther are some area where I have alittle more than an 1/8" gap. ANy suggestions there.

    Thanks,

    sanpedro

  4. #49
    HOTRODPAINT's Avatar
    HOTRODPAINT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I would just use something like paintable caulking, or auto paint stores sell a product called seam sealer.

  5. #50
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    53fatfndr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Pin holes is not good, it's porosity. But, a little bit here and there doesn't necessarily mean you need to start over. Are you mig welding with gas, or fluxcore welding? If mig welding, your shielding gas is getting blown away, or your not metering enough gas, or your base material is really dirty. Also, it can be caused by poor operator technique. There are so many Lincolns out there I'm not sure what to tell you about your setup, but rather you need to spend a day practicing until you are comfortable with your heat and wire speed settings. Have you visited the Hobart welders forum? There are alot of great guys over there that can give you some tips.

    http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/

  6. #51
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    i do this and it work good .i use fiberglass resin and use a small acid brush on the bottom use a back to keep it from runing out of the small hole duck tape works good for this .if it is good and soild this works good .i do not like seam sealer it will shrink and some of it is crap. the resin works 100% better and it will self level .as for your gaps over 1/4 try not to do that .take your time make cuts smaller and fit it up the more time here the better the job. to fix the gap spots cut it out to 1/2 and butt in a pices of steel keep cool with the grinder so you dont have thin steel .

  7. #52
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    Ok well you can have your heat and wire speed set right ect but it doesn't mean that it will be set and right when your welding. All depends on how your holding the gun. How close do you have it, the angle, etc? Closer the hotter, farther less hot and more splattering, sputtering, etc. Must not have it set right still. Take a scrap piece of the same metal and mess with it for a while until you get it going and flowing smooth and no pin holes or sputtering. You may think now that "oh it's going and welding good" but you may find that you can get the setting better.
    JMO
    www.streamlineautocare.com

    If you wan't something done right, then you have to do it yourself!

  8. #53
    Lucky13 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Pin holes are natural when butt welding with a mig, as far as you probably just didn't get the welds close enough together. What you should do when butt welding is take a drop light behind the piece your welding to see any light shining through, then go back over the spots where you missed. To butt weld a seem and get every spot first time out would be fantasic, but unlikely.
    Lucky 13

  9. #54
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    Well guys, it seems I need to work on my welding skills...........my welds are getting better. Thanks for everyones advice

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