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Thread: Running new exposed wiring - recommendations??
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    djpritchard1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Running new exposed wiring - recommendations??

     



    Well, if you've read any of my recent posts, I'm in the middle of dressing up my '31 Model A Coupe from the firewall forward. Recent snag was a pretty deep ridge in the engine cylinders - so I'm off getting new motor.

    Well, now that I'm dressing up the front end, I obviously want to do things right. What do you guys (or gals) recommend for running exposed wires - like the headlight wiring that presently runs up the frame. Presently the guy that owned this rig before me ran yellow SO cord (like they use for extenstion cords) - but it ain't pretty - possibly due to the fact that there was oil leaking out most any where there was oil to leak. I'm planning on being leak free once I get the motor and tranny back in - but I'm wondering what most of you run. I'd prefer to keep something that blends in with the frame (it will be black) - but wondering what folks have been doing in this arena??

    Thanks

    Dave

  2. #2
    robot's Avatar
    robot is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    The new Street Rod Builder magazine has a short article about wire and fuses. Look at it for some info.

    Use ONLY cross linked wire like SXL.....takes a higher temp and resists oils. One source is Del City (delcity.net).

    The good, correct stuff is essentially the same price as the PepBoys junk vinyl coated wire. However, the performance is not the same.....use the correct stuff. Del City has a great online ordering system....and they sell WeatherPak and MetriPak connectors for that new good wire.

    mike in tucson

  3. #3
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    C9x
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    Many thanks for the heads up on Del City robot.

    I ran several of their prices, wire, tie-wraps, fused terminal blocks and their prices are very good.

    A 100' spool of SXL 16 gage cost about twice as much as a 25' spool of 16 gage at a parts house.
    Good quality wire at the parts house, but Del City wire looks to be better.

    Interesting part about the price comparison is that the parts house wire was purchased 12 years ago....
    C9

  4. #4
    robot's Avatar
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    Thanks,

    I use the cross linked wire on all car projects now....isnt worth the risk of melting a jacket. The SXL stuff is good to 125C which is over 250F.....and an engine compartment can get to 250F easily.

    Del City is convenient since Tucson (and Kingman) arent a mecca of uncommon components.

    The only minus for cross link jackets are that your strippers need to be sharp.....it is a hard pull if the jacket isnt cut clear thru.

    mike in tucson

  5. #5
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    C9x
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    Is the SXL stuff about as flexible as the parts house vinyl clad stuff?



    Originally posted by robot
    Thanks,

    Del City is convenient since Tucson (and Kingman) arent a mecca of uncommon components.

    mike in tucson

    True on the mecca bit, so I just make my own uncommon components....
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  6. #6
    djpritchard1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    robot - dittos on that tip. That is what I was looking for.

    Now a few more tips and then I should be off ordering fo Del City and wiring the front end up.
    1. What do most use for securing the wire, and what's the preferred method of securing (as far as hardware - bolts, self-tappers, etc.). Del City has the wire loom clamps (although I noticed Del City didn't have stainless) - are these preferred method?

    2. What's the preferred method some of you have out there for running the wire in? Del City has both the loom and the wrap.

    Thanks

    Dave

  7. #7
    robot's Avatar
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    I have used the loom clamps from Del City

    http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servl...0Clamps&page=1

    to hold the split corrugated tubing.. These are like Adel clamps. The aluminum ones bend nicely.

    ALSO note that there are two temperature grades of the corrugated stuff......use the higher temp stuff. I think that it has a white stripe on it for marking.

    ALSO ALSO: if you use ty-wraps, use the black ones. The white ones are not UV stabilized and will get old and break. The black ones look better anyway.

    Mike in Tucson

  8. #8
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    C9x

    The wire is bendable just the same but it isnt as flexible......you can bend it at the same tight turn but it stays bent a bit more.....does that make sense?

    Before you orderer some, I can send you a small piece if you need......in exchange for reading your great stories on the HAMB site. We probably have 2000 ft of the stuff around here.

    mike in tucson

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