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Thread: Wiring kit time?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
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    Question Wiring kit time?

     



    On my 66 truck I am thinking about just redoing all my wiring and getting power windows on it. The windows now are really hard to roll up and down and I greased them,tightened everything up, etc and they are just wore out and screwed up so thought I will add the luxury of putting power windows in this thing. I looked and saw that EZ Wiring has window kits, wiring harnesses and then wiper switches... I wan't to rewire the whole truck too because right now the old owner has wires just wrapped around fuses, etc to work and that's not doing it for me, there are shorts on the head lights, the wires are all brittle and not sauldered (sp) right, so I wanna do it all right. Since it's my everyday driver I will pay the extra money and take out the extra time away from my 48 to get this thing with as many new reliable parts as I can. The other day my headlights wen't out on my anyways, I couldn't see nothing for a while and had to stop, then they came on. I don't need that at all.
    Here are my questions...
    1.) How many full days would it take to rewire my truck?
    2.) Are EZ wirings power window kits any good?
    3.) Their wiper switch has two settings for slow and fast, right now I have just ONE setting and it's way too fast so will just putting this switch in change that?

    I have a couple more but will wait to ask them since I can't think of them at the moment.
    Thanks a lot!
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  2. #2
    Jperry is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I just finished an ez wire kit in a 1940 Ford pickup. This was my first "Kit" I usually do them old school with spools of wire. This one was a kit that the owner already had. I must say the kit was easier. Especially with every wire marked it made hooking up a lot easier and I would suspect troubleshooting would be easier in the future if ever needed. I put about 15 hours in this kit total. I didn't feel that was too bad. I only worked on it a couple hours in the evening. I probably could have saved some time doing it all at once. So to answer your question, it really depends on how knowledgeable you are with wiring. If you have to have this truck for transportation, I would definatly say allow yourself a full weekend. But if you have no problems and if your old system comes out easy you might get done in one day. It is certainly not a couple hour job.
    I have never used EZ powerwindow kits so can't comment about them, however, the wiper switch. No you will still have one speed on your motor. The difference will be you will have a switch setting that doesn't do anything. If you want two speed wipers then you need to install a two speed motor which will hook up to the other switch setting. Hope this makes sense and good luck

  3. #3
    Matt167's Avatar
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    If ya want an easy job, get somthing that does not use GM connectors, watch for that. As for everything working with your truck, you might consider a stock replacement harness. There is a pretty neat power window kit for trucks, it is a kit that retains the stock regulator, just basicly a power crank handle, put the switch that looks like the window crank on it and it would look stock, just you only pull or push the handle.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  4. #4
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. And Matt thanks for that warning. I think it's all a GM kind of unit. So not sure about that now. Also I saw that thing with the button inside to keep the stock window crank, I thought that was pretty cool too. I dont know what to do with that yet. Since I have this other 84 I purchased comming to my house in a week I will be able to take long on the 66 if I want. Time isn't an issue anymore. But yeah I will be able to work on it a full day if needed so no problem. I may hold out on the power windows though on the 66 and put that in the 84. I think with the 66 I am going to put the bucket seats in it when I can find some, do the carpet, headliner, door panels and then a few other things and be done with it. I will still paint the 66 so it dont rust more but I don't think I will lower it or nothing.
    Less money I put into the 66 then faster I can start on the 48. I do want to start on the 48 in the winter though and get the whole front and rear end all done by mid spring or so.
    Here is what I was thinking and put your comment in on this if you can Matt since you are looking into a T bucket. I was thinking maybe using JUST the new 84 for my everyday transportation, clean it up put some nice parts on it and then be done with it. Then taking the 66 out of insurance and tear it apart and make it a drag truck basically but not right away. Take the motor out and get a Tbucket chassis and body and use the C4 tranny, 302 motor and rear end front the 66 (Ford 9") and use it on the T bucket. Oh and if possible use the steering column and box, etc.
    I think that would be awsome if I can do that and have all that stuff and be able to finish a Tbucket build cheaply.
    This wouldn't be something I would do right now or this year just thinking about it. Probably something AFTER the 48.
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  5. #5
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Originally posted by FMXhellraiser
    Thanks guys. And Matt thanks for that warning. I think it's all a GM kind of unit. So not sure about that now. Also I saw that thing with the button inside to keep the stock window crank, I thought that was pretty cool too. I dont know what to do with that yet. Since I have this other 84 I purchased comming to my house in a week I will be able to take long on the 66 if I want. Time isn't an issue anymore. But yeah I will be able to work on it a full day if needed so no problem. I may hold out on the power windows though on the 66 and put that in the 84. I think with the 66 I am going to put the bucket seats in it when I can find some, do the carpet, headliner, door panels and then a few other things and be done with it. I will still paint the 66 so it dont rust more but I don't think I will lower it or nothing.
    Less money I put into the 66 then faster I can start on the 48. I do want to start on the 48 in the winter though and get the whole front and rear end all done by mid spring or so.
    Here is what I was thinking and put your comment in on this if you can Matt since you are looking into a T bucket. I was thinking maybe using JUST the new 84 for my everyday transportation, clean it up put some nice parts on it and then be done with it. Then taking the 66 out of insurance and tear it apart and make it a drag truck basically but not right away. Take the motor out and get a Tbucket chassis and body and use the C4 tranny, 302 motor and rear end front the 66 (Ford 9") and use it on the T bucket. Oh and if possible use the steering column and box, etc.
    I think that would be awsome if I can do that and have all that stuff and be able to finish a Tbucket build cheaply.
    This wouldn't be something I would do right now or this year just thinking about it. Probably something AFTER the 48.
    Well, sounds like it would be great to use that stuff for a T bucket. Steering colum I wouldn't suggest it because of length, it could be used tho. 9" would need narrowed but that is no big deal. motor would be perfect. For my Tbucket, I got a friend who is in partnership in his dads junkyard, they happen to have 2 Ford E250 Vans with 351's, I asked the kid and he is going to check for price for the runner ( 1 runs, 1 has a bad coil ). I would have to remove it but they would drop the van off at my house as they go by here anyway, every day ( running the daily junker to the yard ), told me that when I got the van, rip out the engine/ trans and they would just pick it back up later that day. The good thing is, they don't care about the vehicle, it is steel price to them, they sell everything that is 1980 or newer ( unless it is worth somthing or runs or they need parts ) for scrap, unless someone ( like me ) wants somthing. As you probably know, a car/ vehicle without an engine will get the same amount as a vehicle with an engine, at the scrappers. Engines can be turned in for scrap also but not in the vehicle, they don't have time to rip out every engine so they get 40 more bucks per vehicle, so they simply don't care what's taken, so basicly, I'm gonna take the engine/ trans and most of the wiring harness, gonna cut it as far back as I can. He said just hack the sheetmetal off the front, cut out the cowl and gain access to the motor that way. Another way he said I could get it is remove the steering linkage and unbolt and move the body back, he said they could run a couple straps around it to hold it after. If I get this 351, I will run it stock ( cept cam and manifold/ carb/ sprint headders ) just dressed up until I can build it into a 393 Stroker.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  6. #6
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
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    Bit motor for T bucket. Sounds sweet though. I would just put this 302 in it though since it's a Ford motor (I like to keep ford in ford) and I have it. You probably wont be able to use all that power from that stroker unless you have a ton done to the T or else it isn't going to handle. A friend of mine has a 302 in his and it handles nice but if he get's high up there in speed then it don't handle too well.
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  7. #7
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Originally posted by FMXhellraiser
    Bit motor for T bucket. Sounds sweet though. I would just put this 302 in it though since it's a Ford motor (I like to keep ford in ford) and I have it. You probably wont be able to use all that power from that stroker unless you have a ton done to the T or else it isn't going to handle. A friend of mine has a 302 in his and it handles nice but if he get's high up there in speed then it don't handle too well.
    It would depend on how it ran with a stock 351, I know it's not the greatest for a 351 but, I was told that both vans were 1986's, so I guess 190 horse would be a good guess, they are carbed also. I will be using a 8" housing that TP sells ( getting everything from TP ), and getting there 2.79 gears, be nice for crusing. I really only put the 393 stroker up as an option, I basicly mean, I would eventully build up the engine and there are endless possibilities with a 351.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  8. #8
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    I'm amazed.......I've been getting ready to re-wire my Model A, and had thought of going to a system with GM connections. I've heard they are good because they're supposed to be waterproof when plugged together, and, of course, color codes, etc. What is the problem with the GM connectors ?? I'm glad I read this before laying out the cash.

    Lar.

  9. #9
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
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    I see where your comming from and yeah even a stock 351 is gonna push that T like crazy and will still haul some butt. Anyways, biglar, Matt means that if you have a Ford to not get the wiring kit for the GM. Now if you have a GM it doesn't matter.
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  10. #10
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Originally posted by biglar
    I'm amazed.......I've been getting ready to re-wire my Model A, and had thought of going to a system with GM connections. I've heard they are good because they're supposed to be waterproof when plugged together, and, of course, color codes, etc. What is the problem with the GM connectors ?? I'm glad I read this before laying out the cash.

    Lar.
    All I mean with using GM connectors is if you have a ford with all ford stuff like FMX, a GM wiring harness will not work without modification. As you have a model A hotrod, 90% of the aftermarket hot rod parts are based for a chevy drivetrain, like, most all of the aftermarket steering colums have GM connectors and the most popular non aftermarket steering colum would be mid 60's GM mid size, also having GM connectors. If you have standardized or Ford connectors in your hotrod then you will have to make the GM connectors adapt to the other connectors, in that case, it may or may not be adventageouse. More than likely you will have no problem
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

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    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  11. #11
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    That's a relief, thanks. Every wiring kit I've looked at so far has GM connectors and color code. My A has a 350 SBC, but I've been giving some thought to making all Ford, i.e. 351/C6 or somesuch. I've been away from all this for a while - gotta educate myself on the newer components, since I definitely want F.I, etc.

    Lar.

  12. #12
    Jperry is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Lar you talk about wanting to convert yours to a FI Ford. I am in the process of installed an FI Ford Motor in my 46 Ford Coupe. I usually use chevy motors and trans, this is my first Ford setup. I can promise you, this will also be my LAST Ford setup. Everything has costs me 2 to 3 times as much to get setup and everything is bigger and harder to get to fit. My motor and trans came out of an 1996 Ford Mustang Cobra, I can tell you there is very little help available for late model Ford FI. If I haven't dumped so much money in this project I would have swapped it out by now to a chevy. So just be forwarned before swapping to a Ford Setup, have big money and lot of creatitivity before starting.

  13. #13
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    Hmmm...........much more food for thought. Thanks.

    Lar.

  14. #14
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    Yeah he is right. EVERYTHING for Ford is basically more money. I would say they are more of a pain to get things to fit and work on but I got used to that with my 66 and that doesn't bother me. But I looked for tranny parts for my Ford and bought all this motor parts, etc etc and then looking for parts for this Chevy now and I will tell you, the Chevy will be much cheaper. If you have the money then yeah changing to a Ford is no problem but just letting you know as well.
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  15. #15
    FMXhellraiser's Avatar
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    Biglar, where exactly do you live in Palm Springs? I used to live there when I was about 4-5 years old but always lived about an hour or two from there and went there a big to visit family. I miss those hot 115 degree dry heat days.
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