Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Vapor Lock, Copper for fuel line?
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    ewingr's Avatar
    ewingr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Lawrence
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1956 Chevrolet Convertible
    Posts
    64

    Vapor Lock, Copper for fuel line?

     



    I won't go into a long story, other than to say I am experiencing vapor lock.

    Are many successful fixing that with an exlectric pump? I have tried putting cool tube around the line in the engine compartment down by the pump and back a ways.

    I have also discovered that I am using copper line. (This is a 56 that I rebuilt some time ago). Is copper a bad idea?

    What are your thoughts?
    Thanks
    Roger

  2. #2
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is online now CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Salado
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32, 40 Fords,
    Posts
    10,865

    Yes, copper fuel line is a problem. Many will say they've gotten away with using it, but they did just that.........got away with it. It's especially a problem if the car is laid up for a while as copper is a catalyst for oxidation of the fuel, accelerating varnish formation.

    As for your vapor locking, most often it's a matter of the mechanical pump being the culprit. Mounted to the block it acts as a heat sink. It is built to pump liquid not vapor, so if the fuel is heated too much coming to the pump, or in the pump itself, it vapor locks. An electric pump solves this because it is usually mounted to the chassis (or submerged in the tank depending on your configuration) away from engine heat (and hopefully exhaust heat). Also check the routing of your fuel as it passes the exhaust system. If it's too close it will pick up heat enroute to the pump, then the extra heat in the mechanical pump has a head start on hitting the fuel's vapor point, and then if your pump is in marginal condition it gets even worse.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  3. #3
    orange crush's Avatar
    orange crush is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    lincoln
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1928 model A Sedan sbc tri power
    Posts
    78

    When I had a six in my 55 I would always have a problem with vapor lock. Putting an electric fuel pump at the tank solved my problem. I would run on the mechanical pump until I had a vapor lock problem hit the switch for the electric and it would start up and run fine. Carlg

  4. #4
    61bone's Avatar
    61bone is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    sioux falls
    Car Year, Make, Model: 27t coupe. Coming soon 32 Pontiac RPU
    Posts
    291


    Replace your copper lines with steel before you burn your car down. Keep the rubber lines as short as possible.
    It's a common misconception that vaporlock happens between the pump and the carb. Not so. Vaporlock happens between the tank and the pump. As the fuel is being pumped from the tank it goes to a slight vacuum which lowers the boiling point. A restricted line at the tank or a plugged pickup screen aggravate this situation. A car that doesn't have a history of vaporlock usually has a problem back there. Sometimes a lost heat shield will induce vaporlock. Recent exhaust work might also if the pipes are too close to the lines.
    The fuel pump will pump some vapors but not enough to run the car. The only good pouring water on the line between the pump and carb does is it gives the other lines a chance to cool enough to stop the evaporation and the pump has something to pump.
    A electric pump by the tank pressurises the whole line so it's not a problem. A electric pump at the motor probably won't do much good.
    theres no foo like an old foo

  5. #5
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
    Posts
    12,423

    Get rid of the copper line. It has very little fatigue resistance to vibration and will crack. Use rubber line ONLY to connect 2 hard lines (about 2" max at each connection) and replace the rubber periodically.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  6. #6
    deepnhock's Avatar
    deepnhock is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Brooklet
    Car Year, Make, Model: '37 Stude Coupe Express
    Posts
    218

    What's wrong with copper fuel lines?
    I watch 'American Hot Rod' on TV and Boydd's shop built with copper fuel lines, so it must be the right thing to do

    If you use copper, make sure you always know where the fire station is

    Jeff


    Originally posted by techinspector1
    Get rid of the copper line. It has very little fatigue resistance to vibration and will crack. Use rubber line ONLY to connect 2 hard lines (about 2" max at each connection) and replace the rubber periodically.
    http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

  7. #7
    ewingr's Avatar
    ewingr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Lawrence
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1956 Chevrolet Convertible
    Posts
    64

    Well, it turned out my fuel line wasn't copper. From looking at it with not enough light, and it apparantly having overspray from a couple paint jobs over the past 23 years, it looked like it was dull copper.

    I took it off, and found it was steel

    So, I put it back on, and added some cool tube around it near the tranny cooler.

    I have put on an electric pump. I'll see how it goes now with the vapor lock.
    Thanks
    Roger

  8. #8
    biglar's Avatar
    biglar is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Palm Springs, CA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '30 Ford Model A
    Posts
    48

    The comments about copper fuel lines are right on the money. Don't do it ! ! ! If they really did do that on a TV show, it's gonna cause problems somewhere down the line.

    When I put the 351W in my '72 Bronco years ago, I came up with a bad vapor lock problem, caused by re-routed exhaust pipes. Solved it just the way you're trying - wrapped the fuel line with insulation, and put an electric fuel pump back by the tank. No more vapor lock. You'll be fine.

    Lar.

  9. #9
    robot's Avatar
    robot is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Tucson
    Car Year, Make, Model: 39 Ford Coupe, 32 Ford Roadster
    Posts
    2,334

    At a place I used to work in Richardson, Texas, we had a guy "fix" his fuel line with a section of copper from the fuel pump to the carb. About two weeks later, I saw his big Ford Galaxy on the 10 o'clock news.....on fire. He said that he was driving along and the thing caught fire. The nearest house was 1/2 mile away (before cell phones) and he had to walk (run). The fire dept saved the tail lights and rear bumper.

    Copper for fuel lines or brake lines is not a good idea, especially since steel lines are soooooo cheap.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink