When I built the roadster pickup, I installed Autolock bearclaw latches with the weld-in installation kits. The bearclaw is in the door, and the striker bolt is in the rear door jamb. I welded in large steel gussets between the rear door jamb and the floor to prevent the body from flexing, and adjusted everything to work correctly. My frame is boxed full length and has "K" members. Now that everything is finished and being driven daily, the drivers side door latches perfectly and stays shut. The passenger side door latches fine when I close it, and can't be jiggled or moved to unlatch. However when I am driving down the road, there are certain ways that I will hit a bump in the road, and the passenger side door will spring onto the "second latch" position. The only adjustment is on the striker bolt position, which will govern how tightly the door closes, and vertical door alignment to some extent. I am not sure what is going on---I thought that once a bear-claw latch closed and "locked" on the striker bolt, that nothing could make that sucker let go except the release lever which attaches to the door handle pull rod. I checked my door handle pull rod, thinking it might be under some tension because of improper length, but that was not the case. I am a bit confused as to what to do to correct this problem. All I can think of right now it to add a dovetail and receiver to the door and the jamb to prevent vertical "bounce" at the latch (non hinge) side of the door, or to chuck the striker bolt up in a lathe and turn down the outside diameter in 0.030" thou increments untill the bearclaw locks on it and can't be unlocked without actuating the release lever.----any suggestions?