Thread: Best Oil

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Hi, I am fairly new to owning a HIGH preformance car. I have a big block 454 what would be good oil to run in it? I don't want to get the cheapo shit.......

Well, you can't go wrong with one of the synthetics. I've had good luck with Mobil1

New Vettes come from the factory w/Mobile one.

Don

I was actually going to ask the questoin about fossil oil VS Synthetic....
I have heard that you are supposed to break in with fossil oil & then swithc to synth. but my BMW came new with the mobil 1 as do the new vettes.............
What's the real scoop?

Krash
Dallas TX

At breakin the rings should seat faster with regular oil. Also, people usually change the oil a few times during the breakin period so there's no point in putting in synthetic until all that is done.

if there is a brand of oil, odds are i have dumped it into my car at sometime, everything from Caseys to Mobile 1 synthetic. i usually go for whatever is in bulk at the local gas station, i think it Trop Artic.

I am convinced that most all oils are so close in specs that your not going to kill a motor by dumping in the wrong brand. Oil companys are smarter than to sell oil that isnt up to snuff and will ruin your motor, it would cost them.

Ive had bad luck switching from dino to syn in cars with "a few" miles on them. Syn oil acts as a detergent and if you have a car that has been running dino for a while chances are some of the stuff in your dino will be holding some of you gaskets together. add syn, get an umbrella (synthetic oil is much less dense too). If its new and you start with Mobil1 you will virtually see no wear on an engine even after "a few" miles. my .02

i dunno about that oil stuff...I've been running straight 50 racing oil in my truck for a little over 2 years now and engine is the original, never been rebuilt in 20 years, it also ran like doggy poo when i got it.

I am kinda partial to Castrol Select. It is not a complete synthetic. I am still at around 12,000 miles and I do not want to go full synthetic untill around 15,000. I broke it in on 10/40 Valvoline. I also run Castrol Select in my Suburban. It has 86,000 miles and it does like it. I will be going full synthetic in it after I have run a few batches of the half and half.
Synthetic oils can really clean the particles that seal the gaskets, and other sealing points if the engine has run for a long time with conventional Dino.

One thing to consider if you use synth-oil in regard to the manufacturers' BS about 25,000 miles between changes- You got a 5 qt. crankcase and start out with your, say, $4-5 per quart synth-oil. In normal consumption of like a quart just every 2,000 miles how do you end up with the same oil you started with? It fakes you out into thinking "yeah its more expensive but it'll last 25,000 miles so it's cheaper in the long run." In 25,000 miles you'd have bought an additional 15 quarts over the 5 you started with. Bogus!

There is that, I just like what I see when I do a tear down on the engine fed synthetic oils.
I am not sure about the hype. I got started with synthetic oils back when I was a pilot and worked on my aircooled engine. I saw very few of the marks and wear I saw on conventional automobile engines.
I do not feel comfortable with the 10/30's, I go with the 10/40 blend.
I also agree with the hype on the 25,000 mile oil change hype. I once ran 30,000 miles with synthetic oil. I will never do that again. There was too much carbon in the oil. I do like reasonable changes.