Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: SBC in a model A chassis
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    josh78hotrods is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    springfield
    Car Year, Make, Model: 30 Model A Tudor Sedan
    Posts
    5

    Question SBC in a model A chassis

     



    My question is what would be the best way to mount a SBC in a Model A frame. The frame has been Z'd 9 in. in the front. The problem is the Z is in front of the motor and if I use standard Model A mounts the oilpan hits the ground and the bellhousing won't fit. I've seen the taller motor mounts but have no idea where to get them. How much of a angle can the motor be mounted at? Any info would be helpful. Josh

  2. #2
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
    Posts
    12,423

    "My question is what would be the best way to mount a SBC in a Model A frame"

    Oil pan down, carburetor up.

    Sorry, I couldn't help it

    As far as motor mounts, you may have to fabricate some to custom fit the car. It's no big deal. Just get some cardboard and cut it with scissors or razor blade to the proper design, then transfer your pieces to 1/8" cold rolled steel and weld it up.

    To get the proper tilt on the motor, have the car at ride height and level the motor by the carburetor pad on the intake manifold. This will angle the motor at 2 1/2 to 3 degrees, depending on the angle cut on the manifold. Use it to also level the motor side to side. It's ok if you have to move the motor to the passenger side a little to miss steering or headers, just make sure the centerline of the motor/trans is parallel with the centerline of the car. In other words, if you move the motor from centerline, DO NOT point the trans tailshaft at the center of the differential, point it straight back, no matter where it points to. The u-joints in the driveshaft will take care of the misalignment. That's their job. The pinion in the differential should point up about the same amount as the motor points down, 2 1/2 to 3 degrees for a street cruiser. If you will be drag racing some with the car, you might lay the pinion in at a lesser angle, maybe 1 to 1 1/2 degrees up.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  3. #3
    biglar's Avatar
    biglar is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Palm Springs, CA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '30 Ford Model A
    Posts
    48

    Techinspector1, I'm unsure as to why it's necessary to line the engine trans with the centerline of the car. Seems like aiming it at the diff would give less angle to the u-joints. I'm not arguing, and haven't thought about that before, but I'm curious. There's a real possiblilty I'll run into just that problem with my Model A.

    Lar.

  4. #4
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
    Posts
    12,423

    Originally posted by biglar
    Techinspector1, I'm unsure as to why it's necessary to line the engine trans with the centerline of the car. Seems like aiming it at the diff would give less angle to the u-joints. I'm not arguing, and haven't thought about that before, but I'm curious. There's a real possiblilty I'll run into just that problem with my Model A.

    Lar.
    The included angle of the two joints (front and rear combined) must be at zero to prevent vibration and premature failure.

    If you have, for instance, zero lateral angle on the front joint and 5 degrees lateral angle on the rear joint, then the two joints are out of phase. If, again, for instance, you have the front joint at a lateral angle of 2 1/2 degrees and the rear joint at a lateral, but opposite 2 1/2 degrees, then you have a zero included angle and everything goes down the road happy.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  5. #5
    Walt Zander's Avatar
    Walt Zander is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Foot of the Lake
    Car Year, Make, Model: '36 Miller/Allard Replica,'49 Stude.
    Posts
    171

    Motor Angle.

     



    Techinspector has just steered you on the straight and narrow.
    Be assured what he has advised is factual.

  6. #6
    Weeg's Avatar
    Weeg is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Littleton
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1953 Studebaker Starliner
    Posts
    122

    When the driveshaft is at an angle, the universal joints speed up and slow down as they turn. IE as the engine universal speeds up, the axle universal slows down, and vise versa. If kept in parallel, they cancel each other out. If not kept in parallel, they will cause a vibration.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink