Thread: BACKING PLATES juiched brakes 32 ford

Tweet

hello al rodders , i am a europeen guy who wants to build a rod

i have bought me a europeen 32 tudor ford







i have a very hard body , doors , firewall (uncut) dash very good woodwork in it
i have some questions about hydraulic frontbrakes (drums )
i have buick drums and a ford f1 frontbeam but those backplates are a bit small for the drums what do i need to make this work

what backplates mus or can i use and what brake shoes do i need the ford or buick ones

i hope that i get an awnser here

sorry for my crappy englisch

and keep rodding

by the way what do you al think of my body

kind regards

rocker

You need 1939 to 1948 Ford passenger car backing plates and 47/48 hubs.

Early Lincoln brakes will also work and have the advantage of the bendix self enegizing design. These are hard to find. But Wilson Welding in Texas offers reproductions complete with cylinders and brake shoes.

Some machining is required to fit the Buick drums to the Ford hubs.

Send me your email address and I will send you some additional information.

I was stationed in Germany a number of years ago. Places like Berlin, Baumholder, Stuttgart, and Bamberg. Are you close to any of those places?

hello bib , can i use the f1 axle withe the 39/48 backplates

machining is no problem i can use a mill and lathe

what brakeshoes do i need the ones from the buick i think or are the 39/48 brakeshoes the same dia

i live in holland and in holland i live in the south between the belium and german border

aprox 40 km from the "ruhrgebied" in germany like dusseldorf


kind regards

In my opinion, the F1 axle is a poor choice. It was designed for parallel front springs and it is really to wide for a 32. The 32 chassis uses one traverse spring over the front axle. It is a very simple and very elegant system.

A lot depends on the style you are looking for. From 1928 to 1948 Ford located their front axles with a "wishbone" that extended back from the spring mounting points to a cup at the rear of the engine. If you are going to be using the original motor a 1932 axle and wishbone are what you want. Earlier and later axles and wishbones can be modified to work. In 1936 the axles got wider and in 1942 even wider still. The earlier axles work best in the earlier cars.

Hot rodders usually "split" the wishbones and attach them to fabricated brackets on the frame rails with tie rod ends. This makes room for later motors and permits modification to the original crossmember for later transmissions. From the aftermarket you can obtain variations to the wishbone called "hairpins" or parallel bars.

Hot rodders usually use a dropped axle in the front. This lowers the front several inches for better looks and handling. Dropped axles are not something you can make in your home shop.

There are several companies in the US offering dropped axles. In my opinion the one from Chassis Engineering is the best. Other comanies that I know about are Super Bell, Flatlander's, and Magnum. A dropped axle is about $220-240 US. A complete front end, dropped axle, spring, hairpins, spindles, and all the small parts but no brakes is about $1,200. You can get away with less if you can find a wishbone to split and a set of 1939 to 1948 spindles.

American style hot rodding has been popular in England and Sweden for many years. There are also strong hot rodding communities in Germany, Finland, Norway, and Switzerland. If you can, you need to make contact. These folks have sorted out some of the legal issues peculiar to Europe and they also know about getting American made parts and using some European made alternatives.

Good luck to you.

Email me if I can be of further assistance.