-
08-07-2005 08:23 AM #16
Are you wanting a street car for your daily driver or a race car for Super Street? If you make a competitive race car it's gonna suck as a street car and vice versa. It might run the number, but it won't be competitive. The Super Street/Gas/Comp guys are all running electonic delay boxes, watching them race is "BORING". Some tracks have a no electronic delay class and those are better.
You say you don't want the LS1/LT1 motors, but if you really want a quick street car that is still a reasonable daily driver, that is a great way to go. The other way is horsepower in a bottle(Nitrous Oxide), or some sort of blower set up. You mention that you don't have the money too spend on the LS1, but then say you want to build a tube chassis. Building a chassis that will be safe for the street and work at the track is way expensive. Just ask Blown Goat or ProZ28. Not trying to run down your idea, just trying to inject a little reality into the discussion.
There is a fellow here in town with a 70's Camaro, street driven, that is running high nines now, through he mufflers on street legal tires. He has the frames tied with an 8 point cage and ladder bars. He has a built up 383 small block with one of the small street blowers and a 150 Nitrous shot. Without the Nitrous, it runs low 11s. He has the car stripped, minimum interior and even no inner fenders up front. It looks kinda raggedy, but don't line up against him. He chose the pre-75 camaro because that is the borderline for smog inspection. And speaking of smog legal, check your state laws. There are guys running smog legal EFI cars in the 11s here in CA.
I've rambled long enough, good luck with your project, what ever you decide to do.
PatOf course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!
-
Advertising
- Google Adsense
- REGISTERED USERS DO NOT SEE THIS AD
-
08-07-2005 08:44 AM #17
4th Gen Camaros are heavy. About 3500-3600 Lbs. The only reason those cars see 11's is because of the Gen III (LS) engine family. And not with carburators. EFI and modern engine tech equals fast times in streetable trim.---Tom
1964 Studebaker Commander
1964 Studebaker Daytona
-
08-07-2005 11:03 AM #18
Hopper you've already got some very good advise from these guys here, so I guess all I'll do is give you a little more input on the tube chassis idea.
Just as stu said doin a tube chassis is a very expensive project, not to mention extremely time consuming. I've been building my car now for going on 6 years (mostly weekend work, but still 6 yrs).
When you do a tube chassis you need to ethier build a jig (such as Pro Z did) to build the chassis off of, or do like I did and spend a ton of time shimming everything so that it is all level and safe. I havent added it up to the penny (scared too ) but if I had to guess how much I had invested into just my chassis and chassis pieces(suspension, steering etc...) I'd say its around $7000+ just into those pieces.
Then you have the extra bonus of not having any of the stock mounting points for the body or any other parts to go off of with a tube chassis I spent the better part of 2 years just lining up all my body panels and making mounts for the fenders and other big pieces that mount to the chassis.
I dont want to scare you away from doing a tube chassis car because they are the safest and fastest way to go, but unless you looking to run in the super pro or simuliar class where your talkin 8 second times, I really think your time and money could be used better on the car.
Whatever you decide on I'm sure everyone will be glad to offer some advise to you to obtain your goal.
BG
Someone gave a suggestion on the first page (I think it was Dave) and I'd agree with his thoughts. Some frame connectors, 8 pt cage, BBC, 9" rear, maybe mini tub it and a few other things and you'd be able to hit the times your wanting without alot of hassle. Only thing I "might" change is rather than a glide I'd think about a T400, unless you cut some more weight from the car. If you are up above the 2800/2900 lb mark the T400 would get you moving a bit harder off the line than a glide, but if you drop some weight in the car then the glide is the way to go.Somewhere out on Woordward ave. cruzin!
-
08-07-2005 12:19 PM #19
ok i've been doing a little more thinking...v8 s10's are always a good route...they are easier to tub as well...There's a guy in town that has a 350 v8 s10 that needs a starter, brakes, tires, paint, and a serious tune up...he's asking 1600 dollars...I think he'd go for 1300...the interior is already gutted and the exhaust is a little screwed up, the pipe that is still connected is about 2 inches off the ground...i know that is wrong, and the other exhaust pipe is in the bed...I'm thinking maybe buy an s10, and like ebay an ls1 or lt1 to drop into it...mini tub, stick it on the bottle, 8 point cage...what do you guys think?
Welcome to Club Hot Rod! The premier site for
everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more.
- » Members from all over the US and the world!
- » Help from all over the world for your questions
- » Build logs for you and all members
- » Blogs
- » Image Gallery
- » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts!
YES! I want to register an account for free right now! p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show
Ok gang. It's been awhile. With everything that was going on taking care of my mom's affairs and making a few needed mods to the Healey, it was June before anything really got rolling on this...
My Little Red Muscle Truck