Thread: Sandblaster
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09-21-2003 08:06 PM #16
It ins't a KKK hood, it's blue, like a Smurf.
sandblasting in the summer sucks, the sand sticks to every nook and cranny cause you be sweaty.
welding in the summer sucks too. You either sweat or get flash burn and spark burns.
Fall is best, but winter follows and that blows.
However, i have 2 'new' snowblowers to play with. They look like escapees from a certain TV show...they could use sandblasted come to think of it! Leave the sand in the driveway for traction.
Mayo jars? NAW! Beer bottles! I was havin a hard time getting them to pop rivet to cover the holes in the fenders anyway.Chris
Only the dead fish go with the flow.
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09-21-2003 09:14 PM #17
how about a water trap?
Or do you not have that problem, I've got 2 on my little air compressor and it still stops up some time.? any cure ?."Whad'ya want for nuth'N, ..............aaa,rrrrrubber biscuit... ?"
"bad spellers of the word untie ! "
If your wondering how I'm doing I'm > " I'm still pick'N up the shinny stuff and passing open windows "
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09-21-2003 09:28 PM #18
Water...
i have a large sears single stage 220v 60 gallon compressor.
Up until 2 months ago, my line tapped at teh tank outlet. no filter, no nuthin. If i ran it hard in humid weather then i'd get some water out the air tool exhaust.
SOOO, i finally got around to running some metal pipe, and tapped off the end of that. It is pitched to drain back to the tank (for draining there). i was told teh metal line (25' plus of it, minimun) would allow the air to cool, the water to condense and drain back to the tank.
Umm....nope. but then , humidity here can be 70 to 80% most of the summer, and the pipes are run in the rafters...
I also got a filter and regulator for painting (yes, i painted a car without a filter...me bad, car fine)
I have NOT had any issues with moisture and sand, although i fear i may be making rust if i am spraying water onto freshly blasted metal...
My garage stays dry (more so now i have a new roof and gutters!). i keep the sand (and most everything else) off the concrete floor. well, ok, the oil and sawdust are kept on the floor.Chris
Only the dead fish go with the flow.
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09-21-2003 10:05 PM #19
can't think of any other questions.......
My big tank has a water-filter ,it hold enough I don't have any problems with it, Its the little 10gal pull-around, that spray water some-times, I have 1 at the outlet & a in-line at the end of the hose, and still spits. I know! its kind of like telling the docter "it only hurts when I do this" . But, I was just wondering if someone had a idea how to fix it?"Whad'ya want for nuth'N, ..............aaa,rrrrrubber biscuit... ?"
"bad spellers of the word untie ! "
If your wondering how I'm doing I'm > " I'm still pick'N up the shinny stuff and passing open windows "
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12-17-2004 05:25 AM #20
I know they always say to not sandblast the sheetmetal, BUT I spent an entire day with a 3m wheels in the air dirll and got about 1/4 of my bed on my 50 F1 pu. I said the heck with this and brought out the pressure blaster and finished the entire bed in a couple of hours and epoxy primed ready for body work. I was careful not to stay in one place longer then necessary to get paint off and to turn rusty areas greyish. Sounds like the fellow above is using the blaster wrong my 90# tank goes a long way and am using Harbor freight nossle with ceramic tip. Yoy must remember that the old ford is 19 guage and thicker, would not think of doing the same on some of the newer vehicle with 20-22 guage material. Ed ke6bnlEd ke6bnl@juno.com
1963 Ford Econoline 5 window
1950 Ford F1 pu
1948 Ford F3 pu
1953 Chevy 3100 AD
1970 Chevy Short bed c10
1972 El Camino chopped top
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12-17-2004 07:03 PM #21
A word of caution---Every year, people are killed by exploding home made air pressure tanks. It ranges from the guys who make air compressors using old lawn mower engines and cold water pressure tanks to those who make home brewed pressure sandblasters using 45 gallon drums. If you are going to make any kind of pressurized container, try and use a tank that was originally designed to hold a high pressure gas. I am not advising this, but many people who build their own pressure sandblasters use an empty 100 pound propane tank.Old guy hot rodder
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01-21-2005 04:46 PM #22
Re: Sandblaster
Originally posted by bulldogcountry1
I bought a "40 lb." pressurized sandblaster, and I am rather disappointed. Blame it on inexperience. It pumps though 5 gallons of sand in about 3 minutes, and it takes at least 5 minutes to stop and fill it back up again. As you can see, this quickly gets frustating.
I was thinking about maybe buying a "110 lb" one. That will get me up to about 8 minutes of blasting time, but I have other ideas.
I bought a siphoning unit for about $20, but I have not fully tested it yet. It doesn't appear to be very effective, though.
Has anyone ever made their own pressurized sandblaster? I was thinking about using a 25 gallon drum, but I don't know about the allowable pressures. I will have to do some studying on that. I think about 100 psi is required. I want to be safe.
Any ideas?
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01-21-2005 04:51 PM #23
So you need to clean up that nasty grunge off the newly completed trike frame. Rather than invest money for
a sandblaster at Tool-R-Us, or a Rent-A-Center wreck, use a handful of parts and that old propane tank. Click here and for $15 to $20 And build your oun that will do the job of a $500. sandblaster
http://www.gothos.com/btw/tech1.html
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01-21-2005 05:03 PM #24
Re:Roll you own Sandblaster
Last edited by flash369; 01-21-2005 at 05:23 PM.
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01-21-2005 05:24 PM #25
I build and use this on everyday
On my 76 Corvette I placed them on the left inner fenderwell, made for a short access to the alternator.
55 Wagon Progress