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Thread: Fuel and Brake Lines....???
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    biglar's Avatar
    biglar is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '30 Ford Model A
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    Fuel and Brake Lines....???

     



    I need to run new fuel and brake lines in my '30 Model A, and I've been thinking about the steel tubing sold by NAPA for brake lines. For the fuel, I'd think 3/8"...??, with neoprene at each end...?? The car also needs - badly - to be re-wired. What is the proper way to attach brake and fuel lines, and wiring looms to the frame ?? My boat trailer uses push-on steel clips, similar to tinnerman clips. Are these OK here, or do I need Adel clamps or similar ?? Is it OK to drill & tap holes in the frame for bolts ?? This is to be a street car and sorta daily driver, not a show car, but I do want it to be strong, tight and safe, and well as reasonably nice to look at. Thanks all.

    Lar.
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  2. #2
    paul274854 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 48 Ford Conv,54 Ford Vict
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    The steel tubing sold at auto parts stores (NAPA and others) is what you want to use for both the brake lines and gas lines. Unless you have a super motor, 5/16 lines for gas should provide all the gas your car can use. Brake lines are usually 3/16, but check the sizes on the car now as some use 1/4 going to the back. Unfamilar with neoprene ends ????, but the lines sold at the parts store are typically inverted flare. To join lines all you need is a coupling which have inverted flares at each end. The type of fitting to the carb or fuel pump will be determined by the type of fitting used on these. The same goes for brake lines, but typically brake cylinders and master cylinders use the inverted flare fitting that mates with the lines.

    Lines can be attached to the frame and elsewere with any type of clamp you prefer. Metal, plastic, Adel type, etc. Push in clips will also do. I have successfully drilled and tapped holes in the frame to attach the clamps. You usually don't have to use over a # 10 machine screw.

  3. #3
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
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    Use short lengths of neoprene or rubber fuel line hose where you have to in order to connect to components, but keep this non-metallic line to a minimum. Here's an excerpt from the NHRA rulebook:

    ..."A maximum of 12 inches total (front to rear) of non-metallic or non-steel braided hose is permitted for connection purposes only"...

    If you wanted, you could run the rear brake line, fuel line and remote battery cable together through Adel clamps spaced about 12 inches apart. Use the rubber insulated Adels.

    Do not run any brake or fuel lines in the driveshaft tunnel.
    Last edited by techinspector1; 09-01-2005 at 09:47 PM.
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  4. #4
    drg84's Avatar
    drg84 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    For fuel line, 5/16 should be enough to keep a supply of fuel unless your running massive cubes. For the brake lines, you want to secure these so that they dont move. Remember, bending causes metal fatigue. As for drilling holes into your frame, there should be some already in place. If there isnt, you can drill small holes, but make them few and far between. Go for the center of the side, and i would reccomend self tapping metal screws. There are those who would dispute this, but it has always worked for me. As for connecting the line, if you buy in segments aka 10foot lengths, you can always make couplers where the segments join together. Or, you can just buy a coil and run solid lines from your tank to your carb or fuel rail. As for brakes, remove a section of your current brake line and replace it with the same size. Hope this helps
    Right engine, Wrong Wheels

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