Thread: I am asking you for your opions

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Hey i am working on a 66 chevy c-10 truck it wieghts 3500lbs and it has 3:73 gears in the rearend and a 350 under the hood turbo 350 transmission rachet shifter holly intake 1000-6500 rpm has just a water pump altinater and crank pullys and a 2600 stall, headers, and a chet herbert camshaft every thing else is stock oh ya and it also has a 12 bolt rearend and a 29inch tall tire in the back what would yall do next i want it to hall ass and be reliable every day talk to me guys tell me what you would do.

does your truck hook up?in order to hall ass ,you got to get out of the hole.i know because i two have a truck,but my truck hooks man like you have never seen.it ways in at 4200lbs and i can pull high 11s.i recently ran a 2.35 second 100 footer. that is 0 to 56 miles in 2.35 seconds. are you running coils or leafs on the back? i think you have coils with a two point.leafs are easy to get traction out of without spending thousands. you have the right gears .what you need to start with is getting your pinion angle downward 4 degrees.with wedges you can by anywhere for about 10 bucks.what this does is first of all,stops bunny hopping.by pushing down your pinion 4 degrees ,it allows weight to be transfered from the front to to rear pushing downward on the tires.also ,when under load the drive shaft is in a more straight alighnment ,which is easier on u joints and allows for better hp transfer.next you need a simple pinion snubber,this is can come in the form of traction bars or just a stop welded above the pinion. what this does is , as the drive shafts moves upward under load the pinon snubberstopps it fromm moving too far upward.when the rear is stopped from moving up too far it forces the front of the truck to lift in the front ,again helping weight transfer to the back wheels pushing them down harderon to the pavement.one last thing for good hook is a set of sticky tires like mickey thompson drag radials or e.t streets.on a truck you can get monsters under there.now all you need is the horsepower to plant.nitrous helps .you could try a 100hp shot but be carefull and jet properely and make sure to obey by what it tells you to do.i run a 250 hp shot no prblem and i kick but on just about everything .people cannot believe how hwrd my truck hooks.i have beaten 04 zr1 corvettes,chrysler magnums-400hp and just about every muscle car in my city.

he has the springs, with the two-point arms. ( I know, had a 66 once, now have a 64 ) So.. you're not going to need traction bars, or pinion snubber, cause those are band-aids for leaf spring setups.

One mod you can make, is to get a one-piece driveshaft fabbed up. By eliminating the center U joint, you can net a tad more power to the rear.

You can drop a pozi unit into the rear end, and that'll help you get off the line. However, pozi units do have their drawbacks. I had a clutch type limited slip put in my 78 firebird, thought it would solve a particular problem I was having: the car would fishtail between gears. Turns out, the limited slip actually made the problem worse. Also, it makes the rear tires wear badly to the inside. SO .. limited slip ( or pozi ) helps you get off the line, helps you get out of the mud, but wears your tires faster and makes you fishtial harder. Although, you'll have little worry of that lead sled fishtailing.

You could try to loose some weight: ditch the tailgate, spare tire, and bumper jack.

Fine tune the ignition timing. Fine tune the plug gap. Put in HEI if you don't already have it. Experiment with different jets in your carb. Duct your intake to pick up cool air. Put on some BIG mufflers, then vent it out in front of the rear wheels. I'm running Dynomax turbos on my 64, but they are a tad loud for my taste. The massive flowmasters on my 78 firebird are actually a tad quieter. An exhaust cut-out is pretty fun too.

My dad's '72 C10 has 3.73's and a pretty much stock 350, has an aftermarket cam, a light to mild 1, not shure on the specs, old owner did not realize it, we knew from the slight lope it has. His truck does not have leaf springs, it has coil springs in the rear, I know it is stock, and not 4 link but it has a panhard bar and 2 connecting links in the front, there Ibeams, not shure what this suspension is called, the ID tag in the glove box says there heavy duty springs.

Matt167
Your dad's truck has trailing arms. Nascar still uses the design and a company makes kits to swap to them on street rods.
Speed Freak
If you reinforce your trailing arms and use new polyurathane bushings front and rear, you will be able to plant the rear better.The poly bushings are firmer and will free up the suspensions up down movement.

Dude sounds nice. Old Iron is built by our great grandads. You want to haul ass. Well, cool, what else are you doing with it "daily". It's about what you can live with, for instance I ALWAYS
remove a.c. parts. If it has power steering you can run the AGR
pieces/or switch to standard steering gearbox. For puttin' power
where it's doing good, you can run wider tires,and also do a air shock or air assist like bags that fit inside the coil spring and separate them so you can preload one side or both.Also can go
w/power pulley system w/sepentine to help keep efficency when
you underdrive acessories,but would also go to like a edelbrock or weiand aluminum water pump,and a really high amp alternator.
Say,like a police 175amp or even an 4x4 200amp, at least no less
than a 140 amp. Also with power pulley(s), prob'ly want a pusher
electric fan or switch all together to electric fan or fans. Small block Chevy so a windage tray will free up ponies , a valley baffle
will help. Switch to a electric fuel pump.Rig a Yblock so you can remove the fuel pump pushrod, then if you burn up a pump(not likely)you can put your mechanical pump back in place easy. I don't know your cam specs so beefing the bottom end is important. You can run studs in your main caps just NOT on the two bolt locations at each end or on the outside bolt locations if it's a 4bolt main , so you can use studs where you mount the widage tray, not near pan rails unless you line hone it. Also a rear
sump baffle will be handy so when you accelerate oil don't climb
into the crank. Headers, a good set preferably ceramic/metallic coated, or if your poor dipped in chrome still helps ,too. DO NOT
go with TOO much carb. I am throwing out ideas,but have no clue
what you want.Haul ass is relative to use(s) of vehicle,what you can live with(like I said),and what you want to spend.

If you have an open differential (non-posi), one of the easiest ways to equalize traction on both rear tires is to install an air shock on the right rear only and experiment with air pressure until you get 2 equal black marks under acceleration. A front-motor, rear drive vehicle twists the chassis on a wedge so that the left front and the right rear get light, the right front and the left rear get heavy. That's why you always see the right rear tire spinning. Once you've got the weight equalized, bolt some cheater slicks on it for Saturday night games and you'll be one more step ahead.

what kind of air shocks do you mean? The kind that you can get from the auto part stores? by the way, you guys have been very helpful. i belong to a couple other hot rod boards, but all they do is laugh at me. (When I tell them what vehicle I am trying to hot rod) I appreciate you guys taking me seriously!

so i take it that the trailing arm suspension is not bad for racing/ everyday driving?

Originally posted by Speed Freak
what kind of air shocks do you mean? The kind that you can get from the auto part stores? by the way, you guys have been very helpful. i belong to a couple other hot rod boards, but all they do is laugh at me. (When I tell them what vehicle I am trying to hot rod) I appreciate you guys taking me seriously!

Yep, just a plain old generic air shock, right rear only.

Originally posted by Speed Freak
so i take it that the trailing arm suspension is not bad for racing/ everyday driving?

It's basically a ladder bar suspension.

first of all firebird. the stuff im talking are not a band aid.there what you call a budget build and if you know what your doing you can get these things to work just as good as any rich mans 4000,00 dollar 4 link. i have a truck and ive been using that set up for three years and havent had one problem,and im running a 466 big block on a 250 hp shot of nitrous sucessfully without any hopping.very little spin and total weight transfer.i run et drags 30x13,5x 15s.i have about a thousnd bucks into my rear with the 411 set up,but its all about weight transfer.its to bad you werent around to see my tail lights.....torino

that souds interesting tecinspector,and it souds like it should work .my question to you is,will it not raise up the one corner of your vehical ?...torino

Originally posted by torino
that souds interesting tecinspector,and it souds like it should work .my question to you is,will it not raise up the one corner of your vehical ?...torino

Yep.

speed freak.heres a reasonably cheap way to get that truck out of the hole and i promise it will work.there is a web site that i will find for you that sells boxed in adjustable trailing arms.this will allow you to set that pinion angle down like i was talking about.they sell for around 300.00.the boxed in part just makes them stonger and more ridged.if you running big tires on the back, make sure that your rake or angle of your truck is not too high from the back,because this will make it harder for weight tranfer to the back.weight transfer on a truck is especially important because there is no weight in the back.alot of trucks have hopping problems. i still recommend a pinion snubber to help with the weight transfer.posi is nice.but really wide tires will work just fine,because of the huge road contact. as far as hp out of your motor.it sounds like your off to a good start.make sure your airfilter is kept up.k@n is good.this is important,set your timing to get as much advance as you can without any ping over 3000 rpm. this is your total advance.which is where it counts.get a second stage shift kit for your turbo which is pretty cheap,and always run good gas{premium} you will notice a difference.from there just keep adding when you can........have fun...torino ps.learning how your truck reacts.and how to get rolling without much spin will be a definate asset when your up against those firebirds...