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Thread: Corrosion in Aluminum intake Manifold
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    26thiboy's Avatar
    26thiboy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 26 Ford Hi Boy
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    Corrosion in Aluminum intake Manifold

     



    I have been experiencing an overheating problem for months. I had to take off the intake manifold to replace the hydraulic lifters and discovered the aluminum intake manifold was almost completely blocked with white crusty growth on both sides of the water ports at the thermostate. I found the same problem in the aluminum neck. I run the green coolant and water. Is there a better coolant, or should I use an additive to protect against this problem?

  2. #2
    orange crush's Avatar
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    They make a slica free antifreeze that should be used with aluminum parts. you should probabley switch to that. also you need to make sure you have a good engine ,and chassis ground to reduce corostion. Carlg

  3. #3
    MAW
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    Where is your ground wire from the battery connected? You can create electolysis problems inside the engine with the combinations of metals (aluminum/copper/iron) with an electrolyte (the antifreeze). It's usually best to use a single point connection at the block, and avoid using the block - or different components of the block - as a conductor (current path).

    Regards, Mark

  4. #4
    26thiboy's Avatar
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    I have a good ground from the tranny to the frame ( not painted). I did think of that so I have checke the ground wire to make sure it was tight. I used an 8 gauge copper fine stranded wire, crimmped the lugs and soldered them also.

  5. #5
    Corvette64's Avatar
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    Sounds like some acid was left in the system possibly from flux when the radiator was made or worked on.

  6. #6
    MAW
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    I used an 8 gauge copper fine stranded wire, crimmped the lugs and soldered them also
    As a general rule, don't solder wires which are subject to vibration. A well done mechanical crimp is perfect, the barrel of the lug is slightly flared to avoid chafing the strands. The lug is held tight, but the strands can flex a bit to avoid mechanical strain. Smear a bit of silicon on, then add shrink tubing and you're done.

    When you solder the lug the solder creates a hard edge for the strands. The individual strands will begin to fatigue and fail at this point.

    This has nothing to do with your problem, just a general tip.

    Regards, Mark

  7. #7
    firebird77clone's Avatar
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    You need a sacraficial anode to drop into the radiator.

    JC whittney has them. ( cheap )
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

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