Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: brake return problem
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 27
  1. #1
    tcodi's Avatar
    tcodi is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    parkesburg
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1950 chevy pickup
    Posts
    580

    brake return problem

     



    I have through floor pedals and the type of brake light switch that is just a lever mounted on the firewall that the pedal arm depresses when it is up.
    My brake pedal isn't returning all the way up (it's real close) so the brake lights just stay on.
    I was thinking of connecting a spring as shown in the picture here. (It is actually a very straight shot, the picture makes it look crooked).
    Do you guys think it would cause a problem with my clutch if I hooked it to the fork like this (maybe it would slightly hold the throw out against the diaphragm or something).
    I do have a good spring on the bottom hole of the fork pulling the fork in the opposite direction. (that return spring isn't in the picture)
    Last edited by tcodi; 09-13-2005 at 06:31 AM.

  2. #2
    tcodi's Avatar
    tcodi is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    parkesburg
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1950 chevy pickup
    Posts
    580

    forgot this
    Attached Images

  3. #3
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Eston
    Posts
    2,270

    You should use two springs, each going forward from both attachment points in your picture. The one from the throwout arm is to keep the slack up in the linkage, and to hold the bearing away from the fingers.

  4. #4
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Salado
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32, 40 Fords,
    Posts
    10,869

    Interesting idea, but every time you shift your brake lights will "flash"..............confuse the heck out of the drivers behind you!

    An appropriatly sized coil spring around the M/C actuator shaft with washers at each end (M/C end and pedal end) works nicely.
    Last edited by Bob Parmenter; 09-13-2005 at 09:47 AM.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  5. #5
    C9x's Avatar
    C9x
    C9x is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    N/W Arizona
    Car Year, Make, Model: Deuce Highboy roadster
    Posts
    1,174

    Re: brake return problem

     



    Originally posted by tcodi
    IDo you guys think it would cause a problem with my clutch if I hooked it to the fork like this (maybe it would slightly hold the throw out against the diaphragm or something).
    I do have a good spring on the bottom hole of the fork pulling the fork in the opposite direction. (that return spring isn't in the picture)

    You need free-play on the clutch pedal.
    If not, your throwout bearing will not last too long.

    (I've got a friend who rests his foot lightly on the clutch pedal.
    He's on his third throwout bearing in less than a hundred thousand miles.)

    Parts houses have springs with a short coil and long straight run of wire on one end.
    Made expressly for clutch and/or brake pedals.


    Good one Bob.
    I didn't think about the brake lights going on when the clutch was depressed.
    C9

  6. #6
    tcodi's Avatar
    tcodi is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    parkesburg
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1950 chevy pickup
    Posts
    580

    I do have a spring that keeps the throw out off the diaphram. It isn't shown in the picture because I took it before I had that set up. But is connects on the bottom hole of the fork and runs forward to a hook I fabricated straight in front.
    My master cylinder has a boot in front of the booster canister, I don't think I could get a spring that wouldn't interfere with it.
    Unless I used a spring that was 2 or 3 inches in diameter.
    Is that what you had in mind?

  7. #7
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Salado
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32, 40 Fords,
    Posts
    10,869

    See the next to last item on this page for inspiration;
    http://www.donshotrods.com/parts/detailparts.html
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  8. #8
    tcodi's Avatar
    tcodi is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    parkesburg
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1950 chevy pickup
    Posts
    580

    Your idea seems best.
    I still think the boot on the booster
    end of mine will interfere with the action of the spring, but I saw on McMaster Carr they have some Conical springs that are 2-3 times bigger on one end than the other. That way it could seat on the booster surface and taper down to a washer on the pedal end.
    Thanks for the suggestions.

  9. #9
    lt1s10's Avatar
    lt1s10 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    rustburg,
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1997 CHEVY.S10 LT1-350
    Posts
    4,093

    why not put a short hose over the sw. lever arm? you dont want to be hooking extra springs to your clutch fork.
    Mike
    check my home page out!!!
    http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html




  10. #10
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Salado
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32, 40 Fords,
    Posts
    10,869

    For further detail, here's a copy of the installation intructions;
    http://www.donshotrods.com/instructions/5000-URSK.pdf
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  11. #11
    tcodi's Avatar
    tcodi is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    parkesburg
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1950 chevy pickup
    Posts
    580

    Originally posted by lt1s10
    why not put a short hose over the sw. lever arm? you dont want to be hooking extra springs to your clutch fork.

    I'm not sure what you mean?

  12. #12
    lt1s10's Avatar
    lt1s10 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    rustburg,
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1997 CHEVY.S10 LT1-350
    Posts
    4,093

    Originally posted by tcodi
    I'm not sure what you mean?
    do you sw. look like this?

    i definitely got to much time on my hands.
    Attached Images
    Last edited by lt1s10; 09-13-2005 at 04:06 PM.
    Mike
    check my home page out!!!
    http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html




  13. #13
    reborn55's Avatar
    reborn55 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    De Soto
    Car Year, Make, Model: 55 Chevy
    Posts
    79

    I have thru pedals on my Dodge--no clutch and i run a spring from the master cylinder lever to the frame. You should be able to do it on yours if you get a long enough unsprung end on the spring. Has almost the same angle as yours.
    Ken

  14. #14
    tcodi's Avatar
    tcodi is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    parkesburg
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1950 chevy pickup
    Posts
    580

    I do have a spring pulling the fork forward like drawn in on that picture.
    Ok, I didn't know what you mean by "sw arm" at first.
    My switch is like you think, it's just a little lever that gets depressed by the brake lever when it comes all the way up. It just stopping a tiny bit short and not depressing it all the way. I was thinking about just putting something on the lever (or switch as you suggested) so that it would get depressed sooner, but I wanted to make sure that brake returned all the way too.
    That's why I figured a spring would help with that last inch it needs.
    Plus the spring I have on the opposite side of the fork is pretty strong so I didn't think using a brake return in the other direction would do harm.

  15. #15
    lt1s10's Avatar
    lt1s10 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    rustburg,
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1997 CHEVY.S10 LT1-350
    Posts
    4,093

    M.E.
    "Why did God give us a penis and a brain. . .but only enough blood to use one at a time?"

    he really didnt like me, i came up short on all 3.
    Mike
    check my home page out!!!
    http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html




Reply To Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink