Thread: Fixing rear 1/4's

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The rear quarters on my '67 Falcon are rusting out around the wheels bad, especially the drivers side, which has the flare up to about half way, after that it is compleatly rusted off, the other is not too bad, the flare is still 100% there. The problem is, 1/4's are not made for '67 up Falcons. So I need to fix the 1's I have. I was thinking of taking a cast of the passenger side flare using fiberglass, and making a fiberglass patch panal and attaching it ontop and just putting bondo to fill the gap of thicknesses, I don't have any way of working with metal to form the flare. Are there any other ways to tackle my perdicament? it is not going to be a show car, just a driver, and I will repaint the car white again after all the work is done.

If u can find Duraglas body filler, there are some other brands, grind the paint and loose rust , and fill it all in. With the waterproof filler it will never rust out in that spot again. Only use bondo type as thin layer over Duraglas type fillers. And put the Duraglas on in thin layers until u get used to working it as it is really strong and can be tuff to sand if u get too much hard filler at one time.

so I make my fiberglass patch, grind the loose stuff and the paint off, then attach it and fill it in with duraglas rather than Bondo brand body filler right?

i was a body man and i lived in mich i have fixed rust. i wish i did not .but the good way to fix it is with steel . but it can be fix with duraglas the duraglas will not rust it glass but it will rust around it . try not to grind it is thin and not much steel sand it with 36 on a d a and tap it low with a body hammer and work the filler up to the steel try to work it behined the steel so it is not thin at the edge of the good steel you want it low so you can fill it thick with duraglas. if there is nothing there big hole . you can use chicken wire and make the flare use to hold it poprivets THEY NEED TO BE LOW TO make shure the repair is low better than a 1/4. you need so this will be soild so no pinholes do not use body filler this is for finsh work and is not as water proof as the glass you can use a backer to so the glass will have some thing to stick to aluminfoil i hear it works good . work it out with a spreader if you use the foil work from the inside out set filler on foil and push it from back side use a shurform fie to it get were you want it alot less sanding keep file in paint thinner help keep it from pluging up. work the duraglas before it get to hard .I NEVER DID THIS BUT IT SHOULD WORK GOOD

I learned this on ambulance bodys, when I lived in Indy. Almost as bad as Mich. winter. Since u dont have a steel patch, try this. Like Pat said ddont grind metal down too thin, but u can also push the filler up behind the panel. Mix small amounts and get it in around the cancer, then fill the big area. If u need to put tape behind the hole till it sets up, and put filler behind after u take the tape off. I haave seen those amulances go for 5 yrs with a fix like that. Maybe u can find a good used quarter by then.

I guess I'll get some supplys next week to do this. If the Ranchero kept the Falcon/ mustang chassie then I would buy a ranchero 1/4 and graft the wheel well opening on my existing 1/4 with my flux wire welder but, '67 Ranchero used the fairlane chassie

we use front fenders off chevy trucks to fix for rust repair on the box the opening was close to the same as the front fender. if wheel opening is the same a front fender or if close cut out what you can use. we kept front fenders off hits just for this

the only problem with that is, there is no sheetmetal repair peices made for a '67 Falcon

you find a front fender and cut out what you need and weld it in to the back if you need a lip if this is the same look at your front fender is it close ??

Now bear in mind that I HATE this repair technique... only do it if you 'promise' to find some steel for a future, permanent repair:

window screen is easily formed to about any shape you desire. Grind down the inner side of the fender, and use fiberglass to adhere to the screen to the fender. When the screen is firmly bonded to the steel, then lay fiberglass on the screen. ( I've seen bondo used also, but fiberglass is more nearly a competent repair ). Sand it down, lay on a layer of bondo, and you're done.

2nd suggestion, and I recently got HAMMERED for a similar suggestion: ( heh heh ).. this might be a good case for a hammerform mold. Simply put, you make a form outta MDF then hammer some 20GA around it till it has the shape you want. There is a little more to it than that, but that is the basics.
( yeah, I recently bought a Ron Covell video, and I'm probably over impressed.) Look, if Ron can make an entire bugatti fender from a combination buck/hammerform then this guy might be able to make a fender patch.

they're just suggestions anyway.

I forgot about the window screen thing, my uncle had me buy a roll of it when he helped me with bodywork on my '51 chevy, the screen was never used so I still have a 25' roll in the trunk. I think this is my only option that I have on an inside fenderwell on my '51 Chevy too, my uncle pop rivited some aluminum flashing in place but it is heavily wrinkled as it is a compound curve, all I would have to do is drill the rivits, lay the screen over the curve, and do it up that way.