Thread: Cool Paint Site

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This guy is outstanding, makes me wish I wouldnt of gave up my art scholorship in 1978.

Link: http://www.killerpaint.com/index.html

SprayTech

Thanks for the link... Definately worth a look...

Dave Brisco

Hey Tech,
I just went over there and read the whole thread & its all on motors And I'm alergic to grease.........LOL
I never had the desire to learn to build my own motors as I have a few friends that are master GM mechanics & trade out work with them when I need help in that department.

If he needs help on the body work Or painting I will be there in a heart beat!!!!
It appears that the body needs no work so I'm at a loss at giving him advice on the motor.

SprayTech

Hey Tech, Thanks for the Link. He's got some kewl stuff. Dave

SprayTech

From the 67 camaro thread. The body is in great shape but does need to be painted. Is it better to paint all the pieces seperately which would mean less masking and getting in all the tight areas or should the body be put back together before painting.

I'll look for an answer either here or on the 67 camaro thread, whichever is easier for you.

Thanks.. Jack

Jack ,
I will try and help you out & not confuse you to much....LOL
Beings I cant see the car & you say its pretty straight ,here are my sugestions.

What color are you going to refinish it ?
If its a solid color I would paint it in pieces: do the whole body including jambs
(sans) doors, deck lid, front sheet metal. Doing this eliminates tape lines in the jamb areas.
Paint doors , deck lid, fenders, and hood seperate.

If its a metallic color I would still paint all seperate , BUT ALL at the same time as
Metallics can change shades slightly from one mixing to another . plus , gun settings , humidity, temperature
& other elements can be of a very slight problem on color match.

ok for preping it out to get to paint, after you have all your drive train finished &
know is has a solid body, I would get some 400 grit wet or dry sand paper & block it
down wet to see all your minor imperfections.
then get some polyester glazing putty to fill them.This product can go over sanded paint!
these areas as any bare metal ,will need to be primed and blocked to get smooth .
I would use K36 primmer from PPG for this.I use nothing but PPG products.
It doesnt matter if you use Dupont, PPG, sikkins ect.just make sure what ever product
you go with stay with it all the way, no mix & matching products!!!

Then when you have it all straight & ready for paint , wipe down with a good wax & grease romover, Tac it,
spray a sealer down , then paint it .

I would highly stress using Base Coat/Clear Coat as it has alot of forgiveness. The base goes on easy & covers
in like 3-4 coats & drys fast. If you have a run, let it dry for a few minutes & sand it with 800 & recoat .
then spary 3 -4 coats of clear .
If you are painting it in your garage make sure you have plenty of ventalation. After you are done painting it dont
turn off fan , let it run all night with a window cracked to let out ALL solvent vapors.
As this can lead to solvent trapping, as paint will gas off for up to 90 days. This can cause the clear to die back
( loss of gloss) or solvent popping (tiny blisters).

let dry a few days then block sand with 1200 -1500 grit wet & buff it to a high Gloss.
I use 3Ms perfect-it products for the buffing & polishing.

I know i most likey missed out on a few things as I have a severe ear infection & cant think real straight.

SprayTech

Since Spray is suffering the ear thing, I'll add just a couple points. If you're not familiar with the term Tac it, that would be wiping down with a tack rag to remove any airborne contaminates that settle on the finish prior to spraying the color or clear. Tack rags resemble cheese cloth and have a tacky resinous material in them.

Your air supply MUST be very, very dry. And don't even attempt to spray any of the modern catalyzed paints without at least an organic respirator (with fresh filter elements), and preferably a "fresh air system". Lastly, use an HVLP gun, it wastes a whole bunch less material, and when you see how much it costs today you'll appreciate that.

Streets,
This sight is a maromedia flash site.
You need to install macromedia flash player.(its free) & also allow active x in your browser options to see it.
http://www.macromedia.com/

You have to find your windows internet settings and turn on active x to see the site. what version of windows are you using?

in windows 98 & ME you can click on start, then click settings, control panel, internet settings, it will open a new window box, look for the security tab, then you will see on the bottom ,
custom level , this will open another box , and this is where you find your settings for active x.
I dont have XP so I dont know if you can do it the same way.

Surely one of these guys around here can give you some help with XP.

SprayTech

Everyone, Thanks agian for the response. Painting is a long way off, but it's good to have this info before hand. I'm in construction and deal a lot with industrial coaters so agree with all of you on the hazards. Health is the number one priority.

Richard, both Trevor and I like the orange with white idea. The original color was dark blue and that is where mama thinks we should go. Lots of time to decide though.

Jack..

Nice LINK! Thanks for showing it. I love the realistic flames...'bout time sombody got them right.

Abe