Thread: Frame

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What is a good frame to go under a 48 thru 52 Ford P/U ?
Is a AMC front clip close to a stang 2 - If not , what is different ?

The original frame works great, update the front to a MII suspension and brakes set up, the rear to either an 8" or 9" ford rear with either the leaf springs or coilovers.

If you want to change out to a frame with built in IFS, power steering, power brakes, and front disks. Look into a Chevy S-10 long bed. The wheelbase is 117". The shortbed wheelbase is 109". You could even try a Ranger frame, but only the newer ones have IFS. The older ones have swing-arm suspension. The wheelbase on a midsize Ranger is 113". The wheelbase on a 48-52 F-1 pick-up is 114".

If you go with a S-10 frame, a SBC with a TH350 or TH700 R4 is a bolt in. The drive shaft will not need to be cut. If you go with a SBF with a C-4, you'll need different engine mounts and some mods for the tranny cross member. You'll have to resize the driveshaft. The cab/fenders/bed will require new mounts. The cab and inner fenders will need some cosmetic cutting

If you go with a Ranger frame, a SBF and a C-4 will fit with new mounts and some tranny cross member and drive shaft mods. If you go with a SBC and TH350 or TH700 R4 You'll need special mounts, and a lot of torch work. The cab/fenders/bed is almost a bolt on.

There's your frame options...The choice is up to you.

Keep this in mind...
The original frame on a 48-52 F1 was designed to be flexible. That's why you have knee type cab mounts at the rear of the cab. It's been flexing for over 50 years, and has probably developed metal fatigue. Most were designed as farm to market trucks, and required an overdrive to go faster than 50 MPH.

I opted for an S-10 with a 327 SBC with a TH350 trans. The whole thing was a bolt in. I used 4" angle iron for new cab mounts front and rear. I used the S-10 steering column and swing pedals. It took me 2 weekends to do it. One weekend to strip the S-10 frame, the other to re-assemble it under the Ford.