Thread: Under the floor Master Cylinder - how to mount brake switch?

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Have installed an under ther floorboard Master Cylinder. Can't figure out how I'm going to pass inspection getting the brake light switch to work. Issue I'm having is the throw on the new pedal linkage is much more than was on the old set up. The new pdeal comes up quite a distance off the floor, through a long pedal linkage. The old set up had it up close to the pivot point. The new one, the pivot point is obviously down under the car, and don't think the brake light switch would do well under there - getting splashed with water and all.

Be interested in hearing ideas and maybe seeing some pics about how you craetive memebers got around the problem I'm having.

Thanks

Dave

Why not use a presure switch.
Remco

an inline pressure activated switch or weld a bung on the pushrod to the master cylinder and use that bung to activate the switch, if youre worried about how it'll weather then build a cover for it

Yep, an in-line presure switch is the way I went. I would suggest maybe putting it close to the master cylinder before the pressure valve so it gets good fluid pressure.

Jegs part #764-80171 Painless brakelight switch. I installed one in my Falcon this past weekend and it worked flawlessly. use waterproof terminals.

All the old cars had in-line hydraulically operated switches before the electronic ones on the brake pedal.

Put a tee in the line for a pressure switch but make sure the opening for the switch points upward so if you have to change the switch you dont loose brake fluid. Ron Frances sells one that works on low pressure.

70 - 80's era Chevy brake switch.
(Underdash style.)

Part of the arm sawn off.

This is a well protected location, I've driven my 32 roadster in fairly deep water and I don't think the switch has ever gotten wet.

Never had one of these switches fail either.
Lost two hydraulic switches on this car.

The brake pedal is tapped 10-24 for the stainless allen bolt that's locked on with the nut you see.

C9x, I like that solution, got a part #? Joe

C9x - I also like your solution, by the description, but I'm having trouble understanding exactly what I'm seeing in the photo. Is the switch on the back side of the brake pedal? I assume I'm looking at a portion of the brake pedal arm, but am having difficulty distinguishing which is the pedal end, and where the actual switch is in the photo. To the lower left had portion of the photo, that little cicular protrusion, with the nut over it - I'm thinking this is the switch? If so, what does the switch hit to activate it.

Thanks

Dave

Go to your local NAPA parts store and pickup a mechanical brake light switch. It has the mounting hardware included.

Mounts inside, out of the weather and the arm of it presses against the brake pedal arm. When the brake pedal is pushed, arm moves and activates a built-in switch which lights up the brakes. Easy wiring, one connection in, one out to lights. Costs about $12 to 15 bucks.

If I find the Part number, I'll post it.

HYDRAULIC BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH, 1/8" pipe thread fitting, tee in the brake line




http://store.summitracing.com/partde...=KeywordSearch

HYDRAULIC BRAKE LIGHT SWITCHS have always been known to be problems. When used with residual pressure valves the brake lites stay on or flicker. If found to be faulty the brakes have to be re-bled after installation. They haven't been used on auto applications since the '50's, reason, unreliable!

Guess I've been lucky then, been running em on my harleys & hot rods for close to 30 years with no failures.

Guess I've been lucky then, been running em on my harleys & hot rods for close to 30 years with no failures.