Thread: Like to install new throttle linkage - any pics?

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The throttle linkage that presently is installed looks like someone "threw" it in there. It's a cable that comes off the pedal and goes immediately through the firewall - then it meanders around and finally to some homemade bracket that I wouldn't want anyone to see - but obvisously it's right there on top for all to see. The cable is way too long, and that's another reason I want to replace it with a new one.

I'd like to see if anyone has any pics - one that focuses in on the linkage around the carb, and another shot of what it looks like to the pedal

I'm thinking Lokar, but am not sure of which cable or which bracket to purchase. Accepting recommendations.

Thanks

Dave

And the car is.......?????

Sorry - it's '31 Model A Ford, 2 Door Coupe

Has a C4 tranny and 70 vintage 302 cu in. engine. Holley 4-barrel carb


Dave

Give Lokar a call, they can figure it out for you. They've probably done hundreds or maybe thousands of them.

Originally posted by djpritchard1
The throttle linkage that presently is installed looks like someone "threw" it in there. It's a cable that comes off the pedal and goes immediately through the firewall - then it meanders around and finally to some homemade bracket that I wouldn't want anyone to see - but obvisously it's right there on top for all to see. The cable is way too long, and that's another reason I want to replace it with a new one.

I'd like to see if anyone has any pics - one that focuses in on the linkage around the carb, and another shot of what it looks like to the pedal

I'm thinking Lokar, but am not sure of which cable or which bracket to purchase. Accepting recommendations.

Thanks

Dave

Here's a pic of a single carb linkage from under the hood.
Home-made from 1/4" stainless rod and 1/4" Heims available at bearing houses and the like.

You can also make them from 3/16" stainless rod if you like.


Here's a pic of a single carb linkage from under the hood.
Home-made from 1/4" stainless rod and 1/4" Heims available at bearing houses and the like.

You can also make thme from 3/16" stainless rod if you like.

Here's the pic for the above post . . . lost it when I tried to swap pics.

Here's a pic from the inside.

Here's a basic straight linkage on a dual quad setup.
Two 500 cfm Carters fwiw.

Same deal, 1/4" stainless rod etc.

I like solid rod for several reasons, the main one being if the throttle sticks you can push on the top of the throttle pedal and return to idle.
Not so with cable linkage.

Here's a pic of the home-made Teflon bushed throttle pedal and throttle rod.

C9x - great pics. That helped out. I'm going to get a digital camera and take a pic of my gas pedal linkage, as that is whre my concern is. Based on your pics, I'm pretty sure I can use the Lokar universal bracket the attaches to the back passenger screw of the carb. With the universal linkage - I'm pretty clear on how that will attach to the carb, but where the cable attaches to the pedal, it just comes through a tube that penetrates the floor board. Then there is some round ball on the end. On the Lokar universal linkage, it's got a fitting that looks like it's very specific to attach to Lokar's line of Universal Gas Pedals.

Pic at lower right hand side in this link shows pic of specific fitting that is on end of cable:

http://www.customrodderweb.com/tech/0503sc_pedal/

Thanks

Dave

Far as the carb connection goes, I like using the upper hole for a pivot point.
Better leverage.

If you use the Carter/Edelbrock upper hole an alumunum stepped spacer is required, make one from 1/2" aluminum rod.
It'll need a step turned in it to key it in the proper place.
If you don't have access to a lathe, you can chuck the aluminum piece up in a drill press chuck using a mandrel - made from headless bolt and a couple of nuts. Use a file to cut a taper on it.

You can see a tall stepped spacer in the single carb pic, that was done to get the arm out a bit.

If a thinner spacer would work, you can buy them from speed shops and the like.
I believe you can also find them in the Holley carb accessories/parts displays at well stocked shops.

Advantages I can see with using the Lokar floor pedal is that closing up or insulating the firewall hole with a through rod is not required.

What you can't see in the pics is that the firewall pass-through on my cars blocks hot air flow by a floating Teflon disc.

I'll post a couple pics.

A lot depends on what you're doing as far as type of throttle pedal goes.
The Lokar floor pedal is a neat device, but some engine swaps in some cars may interfere with access to the lower fitting.
At least it would if you were under the car.
Looks like it would be easy enough to pull the pedal from above.
If you used sheet metal screws to hold it down.
I don't care for sheet metal screws most times.
Aside from cutting heck out of you if the ends are exposed they tend to loosen over time.
For a throttle pedal setup like the Lokar's, I'd use bolts and nuts.
From what I can see in Lokar's pics, it looks like bolts and nuts were used.

You probably spotted the overly large firewall hole in the pic of the 31 with it's home-made throttle pedal.

Reason is so the heat insulating gadget can be adjusted to cover the range of vertical and horizontal movement the throttle rod does due to throttle position and engine torque.
Although in my car, the home-made engine mounts only allow a minimal amount of torque-induced movement.
Even if it didn't, the floating Teflon disc has the capacity to self-adjust for fairly large torque movement due to soft mounts.

Here's a pic with the throttle depressed all the way.

Here it is at idle.

(The seal proper needs to be adjusted to the right a bit so as to center the throttle rod proper.)

C9x- where do ya get those teflon "thingies"? Pretty neat solution! I too like the Lokar pedal and the way it installs cleanly. Like you said, the issue may be what conflicts in that area - in my ride, it's awfully close to the tranny. I'll have to crawl underneath and measure things up. Presently, the through tube, that carries the cable is situated up 6" or so above the floor board. The Lokar is closer to the floor board.

Thanks

Dave