Thread: rust removal!

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20 years ago i used Bondo, it worked, but you could get Ditzler 999 filler in a gallon for less money (see auto paint suppliers) and it was much nicer to work with.

Currently using bondo as i have not much to fix and as SprayTech says, things are better these days.

Bought car from a friend's parents, they paid to have a rusty front door fixed at a reputable shop (rusty and holes). It was bubbling, so i took it apart to fix...it was NEWSPAPER (the sunday comics as a matter of fact) bondo'd in place, bondo'd over, sanded and painted. Even when i cheat, I can do better!! (duct tape, spray foam, roof cement is my favorite!)

How do you get BondO- to stick 2 lead?

sand the lead? wipe the lead with ...laquer thinner, or other solvent? Bondo sticks to most everything...

Two part glazing putty? Is it better, and in what way, than the one part red stuff i am used to?

While you can get polyester filler to stick to lead you do run the risk of failure down the road. The lead filler often contains acid that can migrate to the surface and dislodge the filler. You may have seen an old car where the paint is intact on the steel surfaces but has "flaked" off on the lead filler. Same problem. You'd be better off grinding out the lead and using filler from steel on up if you plan to keep the rig long term. I know, sounds like heresy doesn't it?

screamer,
If the stuff I think you are using is a lacquer base spot putty.
It will in time shrink and show every where you put it under primer & paint .

The 2 part glazing putty , doesnt shrink or swell and is the way to go these days for the final top coat of your bondo repair, its a finer filler & is sanded with 180 grit or finer, this way it takes less primer to get your panels straight.

SprayTech

SprayTech,
Now i gotta go to the store AGAIN.

I am filling in little niks, dings, over putty repairs, etc. This car has several coats of paint, and a nick to steel is pretty damned deep at this point!

Also, i did some resut 'repair' with POR and, well, it seems THICK now that it is dry and i have to feather that edge in ...fortuenately it is low on teh doors and they kick in pretty far so perfection is not totally necessary, but i can't leave it alone and i doubt sanding the POR will work.

Got a brand name? Local stores here carry PPG products mostly.
I assume mix it wither like epoxy (50/50) or bondo/tiger hair (a little hardner goes a long way).

I have seen/expereinced the shrinkage already...add, sand, add, sand, add, sand, add so i KNOW there is too much, and still need more...

Screamer,
The product i am refering to is a PPG product called TechniGlaze
The # is DF 715 it comes in a small can & you mix it like bondo, and yes a little hardner goes a long ways.
Good luck sanding that por 15 , once cured it sands lika a rock .......LOL
Por-15 has a primer that you can use first & can be sanded then Por-15 black can be put over it .
Their web site is full of the products they make: http://www.por15.com/

Ah ! But to strive for perfection is the FUN part , and the extra elbo grease needed isnt a waste of time .

On a side note about bondo over led is just like Bob said, bondo never stuck to lead. But my suggestion to remove the lead out of the seam is to get a fire wrench ( gas torch set) with a low heat & melt it all out, or use a small propane blow torch that you use for sweating copper joints to melt it .

The lead now days that you get isnt like the stuff of old as the chemical make up of the lead sticks have changed , I learned how to make it work years ago, and it takes a few tools to to make it easier .
Torch set , lead , lead paddels( of different shapes& sizes), the butter for the paddels to keep lead from sticking to paddels, tinning solution, vixen files (in flat & curved styles).
It also takes some talent to get the heat just right to melt the lead to the panel then smooth with the paddel , all the while kepping a torch going to keep it at the right viscosity to spread.
I learned form a guy that made Darrell Starbird famous, His name was Dave Stucky. this is the guy that made the Lil' Coffin car with that cantelever roof that Darrel said he built.

SprayTech

Here's the car I speak of & a site to look over:

http://members.aol.com/styrenearc/pr...in/coffin.html

HEY!
I have this car!

It says Hot Wheels on it!