Thread: rust removal!

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tHERE WAS'T ONE! you see "I do that for my own amusement", But, since you brought it up & I have made this post we might as well talk about it. I use a plasma cutter, & sand Blaster! Wha'ch-a got?

I'd like to cut things out, but the prob there is you gotta put something back. In most cases. Floors are handy to have at times - i mean, the rug gets wet and smells without them ya know.

I have tried many things, and the most recent chemical is POR-15. Seems like a miracle item. I will be giving it a test on my daily driver 93 taurus, and the Camaro project will be, well, 50% POR by the time we are done.

One recomendation was to use fiberglas cloth and POR in stead of resin. Hmmm...

I don't suppose you get much rust in OK?

for Your own amusement, Right. They salt everything here, When it gets a little cold. ....I try to blast as much as I can, and I was going to try the por-15 soon, works hu? There used-to-be some stuff from 3-m I'm trying to find , you would wipe it on ( like in-side the door skins) where-ever you couldn't reach. I think it was some kind of acid. Can't remember?

STREETS will get something in on you!.....................Glad your back, STREETS.

Krylon makes a chemical in a rattle can, not too bad. Rustoleum too, and there was avalible in a skim milk like liquid (white and THIN. years ago a friend had a gallon milk jug of stuff that he got form an airplane mechanic. We painted it on most sides of swiss cheased floor in a 60 ford sunliner, one that would nearly move in the breeze, and it turned the rust black, and in about an hour you could STAND on that floor! I have been searching for that chemical ever since....

POR can be sprayed, but it has very very specific handling instructions. It also goes a LONG way.

I made the mistake of putting it on the outside lower part of my doors, and now i have to sand it or fill the edges where it meets the untreated metal...can't paint over the ridge...live and learn!

" a skim milk like liquid " Thats what this was like & it turned it black, YA...... but I can't for the life of me, remember what it was called? It's probably outlawed, now & i'm pretty sure it was made by 3-M.

Rustoleum was/is called EXTEND
The 3M product might have been Rust Avenger...found that on the worldwode 3M site, but cannot find anymore about it.

I hate rust.

I want the paint they paint railroad cars and bridges with.

I use Citric acid, Phosphoric acid or baking soda. I write about them in a thread earlier but can't find it.
If you 'paint' over with the phosphoric acid after sand blasting, the rust will turn black and it will stop the rusting process.


Jani

Hay....Janiluo.....whats the mixture ,where do I get it, "Don't have to squeeze a-bunch of oranges do I ,....I mean,......I will, if it works" But, I would rather buy it somewhere. I'm sure all of us "pups" would like to know. When you got the time........................ For now I'm gon'a go rub some orange peel on My buick,the 49 ,& my work truck. I'll probably need to plant a tree for the first 2.

I use POR-15 on my frame and a chassis parts. If flows so well, even painted on with a brush it glosses up like it was sprayed on. It does have some nasty attributes, so I would rather brush it than spray it. Either way, make sure you use resporator and keep area well ventilated.

I will also be using the POR-15 inside the car on the floorboards with faberglass matt to give the whole car more rigidity. It also improves sound deadening and the POR and fiberglass matt give a nice texture finish. I also use the POR and fiberglass matt to seal and cover wooden speaker boxes in the body panels. Also one behind the rear seat for a sub-woofer. Sealed wood enclosures put out some great sound. The POR also flowes through the fiberglass matt much better than resin does.

POR also has Metal Ready which is an acid base rust remover and etching agent. Makes the POR-15 bond very well. They also carry Marine Clean for final prep before painting.

I find the POR-15 to be tougher than powder coating

Dean

Well...

1)
For the doors and sheetmetal parts I use Citric acid (E330 - Look the label in the soda can!) 25 hours at least 25 degrees Celsius and the rust is gone.
Even from inside the doors where you cannot sandblast.

Mixture:
about 1000 Liter water and
25kg citric acid powder
(about €40-50/25kg bag here in Finland)
You should ask companies that sells Industrial chemicals. In the pharmacy, chemist, drugstore or whatevery you call it there in the states, it will cost more.

2)
For the parts that are too big to dip in the barrel, I sandblast them and then 'paint' them with phosphoric acid using a paint brush AND GOGGLES!!!
I prush it on and wait until it dryes (1-2 days) and then llittle sanding and primer coat.
The phosphoric acid is very toxic and the process will create hydrogen so I use it outside and not inside the garage.

Mixture:
I put 2 deciliter water and 1 deciliter phosphoric acid (liquid) in a glass bottle.

I'm sorry about Euros Liters and Celsius but I hope you can translate them.
Maybe you have diffrent names in the cemicals too.

Jani

Iiii thinkkkkk I,m learning more on this post then I thougt I would. ( Sorry, My hands had orange juice on them) thanks for the info Jani. I'm gon'a use that. weeg You really think that por-15 is tougher than a good powder coat, thats good! thats what I want to hear, "the stuff I can do at home is better". Now if I could just "reCHROME-aT-HOME" How-bout some stuff called "metal-all"?? ? I've never used it but, heard people talk about it " as a skim coat" In bad spots insted of BONd-O , or Lead ,4 A NICE finish? Anybody ever heard of this stuff?

There are several of these metal type bondos you refer to :
All-Metal, Metal-to-Metal & Alumalead.
I havent used them in years .Once it kicks (drying Process) it sands like a piece of granite.

The lite weight fillers used today are way better then years ago,
so dont be afraid of BONDO as it has had a bad rep. Mostly from
not knowing how to mix & use it correctly.

SprayTech

If your refering to the new 2 part glazing putties , yes I'm a firm believer in them.
I use it quite often(PPG's brand techniglaze) when my body men cant seem to get pin holes out of thier bondo, but I use it after I have shot 3-4 coats of PPG's NCP-271 corrosion resistant primer.

It is also recommended to use over properly sanded paint also, for minor imperfections. Then primed of course

SprayTech

Screamer,
That "skim milk" lookin stuff is still available. It's called rust converter and, depending on what part of the country you're in, different brands are available. Here in Florida we get "One Step" or "Extend". Out in the western area of the country I'm told there is one called "Fer-Tan". There may be (and probably are) others with other names. I have used "One Step" many times and had good results.

The way they work is they cause a chemical reaction to take place in the rust. Tannic acid and other chemicals cause the Iron-oxide (rust) to be converted into Iron-phosphate. Iron-phosphate is an inert compound that is unaffected by moisture; hence, the rust is stopped in its tracks.

If you are using any of these products DO NOT spray them. They will ruin your spray equipment and the mist will damage your lungs. Apply it with a brush or sponge and wear rubber gloves because it will turn your skin purple.

It brushes on white, but turns purple-black when dry. If the rust is heavy it helps to wet it (!) first so the rust converter will soak all the way in. After 24 hours you can apply body filler or primer directly over it.