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12-30-2005 04:26 AM #1
Buzzing in car stereo....cant nail it
I've just transplanted a Clarion HU from one car to another.
It never buzzed in the 1st car it was in.
It buzzes while the engine is running only.
I have taken the alternator belt off and run it, it buzzed.
I have added a suppressor box to the ignition wire, buzzed.
I used a relay from the ignition wire to connect it to the battery supply, and it still buzzed.
It currently only runs front speakers off a little Sony amp.
But it doesn't buzz with the engine off.
All power and ground leads are good, battery earth to body is only 0.22 Ohms.
Any ideas, things to try, test or smash, i'm all ears.
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12-30-2005 05:02 AM #2
what make and model car ?
so that i maybe able to understand what type of electrical system you have.
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12-30-2005 05:15 AM #3
Every time ive ran into this ,its always been a ground wire,reground all components to a different spot and see if it stops
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12-30-2005 06:48 AM #4
You aint running good old Packard 440 copper core spark plug wires are ya ?Objects in the mirror are losing
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12-30-2005 07:42 AM #5
I agree with viking. Spark plug wires were my first thought too. They do sell filters that can be placed in line on the power wire of the stereo. You can also try changing the spark plug wires. Anybody else agree?Stan
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12-30-2005 07:46 AM #6
It may not be in your stereo, a buzzing that increases and decreases with the accelerator could be a short in the engine compartment. Run it at night with the hood open & look for any sparks grounding out.Jim
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12-30-2005 07:51 AM #7
Plug wires has been my experience.
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12-30-2005 08:02 AM #8
yeppers.....same here.Jim
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12-30-2005 11:03 AM #9
The car....
....is an Australian 1982 Ford Falcon. 200 cube, 5 speed, carb. The original radio didn't buzz either come to think of it.
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12-30-2005 02:16 PM #10
Xentrix,
Your radio is suffering from RFI Radio Frequency Interference. Go to Radio Shack and get a 2000 MFD 25 volt Electrolytic Capacitor and a Radio Interference Filter (coil of wire). Insert the filter between your radio hot wire and the 12 volt source. Connect the Capacitor between the radio hot wire and ground. One side of the Capacitor is pos, the other is neg. This will cut out the tick tick tick from your points, and the whine from your altenator.
For those of you that like to swap radios from one car to another, keep in mind there is a small box or tube attached to your hot wire. This is a Radio Frequency Filter, it's there for a reason. Don't cut it out of the circuit. Take a good look at it, some cheapo companies like to cheat and put a fuse there instead. They sell filters for $20-$30. Save your money, it's only a capacitor and coil, build your own for $3-$4.52 Ford F-1, 327 Chevy, S-10 frame
My website:
www.geocities.com/lakota_circle_dancer/swap1
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12-30-2005 03:16 PM #11
Originally posted by lakota
Xentrix,
Your radio is suffering from RFI Radio Frequency Interference. Go to Radio Shack and get a 2000 MFD 25 volt Electrolytic Capacitor and a Radio Interference Filter (coil of wire). Insert the filter between your radio hot wire and the 12 volt source. Connect the Capacitor between the radio hot wire and ground. One side of the Capacitor is pos, the other is neg. This will cut out the tick tick tick from your points, and the whine from your altenator.
For those of you that like to swap radios from one car to another, keep in mind there is a small box or tube attached to your hot wire. This is a Radio Frequency Filter, it's there for a reason. Don't cut it out of the circuit. Take a good look at it, some cheapo companies like to cheat and put a fuse there instead. They sell filters for $20-$30. Save your money, it's only a capacitor and coil, build your own for $3-$4.
but I wanted to know more abought the car first.
because after replacing the capacitor and I still had the problem. and latter found that on my 59 imperial the original generator "not altinator" had some problems that was to blame. and before I would give him a suggestion to find the problem I wanted to know if he had a generator .
also from my past mistakes and a few burnt up cars. If you question the condition of you'r cars wiring. then dont put it off. repair any possible shorts you may have while you are searching for you'r problem.
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12-30-2005 04:08 PM #12
Exxxcellent.
Just one more bit of data, when you say 2000 MFD, do you mean 2000 micro farad or 2000 millifarad or have I got something wrong comepleteley.
I did put the little black box in series with the ignition wire, however I have that wire switched straight to the battery via a relay now.
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01-01-2006 04:56 PM #13
M is micro,is my first inclination..
but micro is actually the little greek letter which looks like a u, and milli is an m...
hmmm
to the battery, or to the ignition wire should make little difference.
Definietly spark noise, as the buzz does not go away with the alternator disconnected.Last edited by firebird77clone; 01-01-2006 at 04:59 PM.
.
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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01-01-2006 10:01 PM #14
Make sure you have delco suppression plug wires or equivelent, and also make sure you have the correct resistor spark plugs in the engine. saw this problem in an 05 taurus, the guys at work replaced entire wiring harness under warrenty,this did nothing. engineer came out to our dealership, and said replace spark plugs. WE gave him dumb looks, BUT IT FIXED THE PROBLEM! BELAIR MIKEBELAIR MIKE
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01-01-2006 10:41 PM #15
Originally posted by firebird77clone
M is micro,is my first inclination..
but micro is actually the little greek letter which looks like a u, and milli is an m...
hmmm
to the battery, or to the ignition wire should make little difference.
Definietly spark noise, as the buzz does not go away with the alternator disconnected.
how long has it been since you did a tune up?
your original radio didnt buzz but the new one does right?
if so it may be because the new radio is more sensitive than the original, the problem could have just started. but if it were me I would replace all plugs wires I know that although plugs and wires along with dist cap and rotor are wearable items that should be replace as they wearout.
in case you didnt know this but my old work truck is a 81 ford f100 with a 4.9L and it has a condenser mounted on the side of the voltage regulator . like the one in the picture below.
also have you checked that the coil is not jumping fire to the connector. also in the picture below.
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