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Thread: Chrome oil pan, trans, and flywheel cover
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Richie is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Chrome oil pan, trans, and flywheel cover

     



    I'm on hold waiting for the body for the 32 I'm building, the chassis has been finished. I go over the chrome stuff every so often and polish it, about 3 weeks ago I installed a two post lift in my hangar where I've kept my chassis covered. I put it on my lift and all three pans have what looks like water sport that won't come off and it looks like crap, I called and sent pictures to Speedway where I bought this I found out from talking to them its China crap. its the ones that have the ribs, its the style I wanted. what I'm asking some of you that has been in this a lot longer than I have is where is the best place to buy this kind of stuff. Speedway said just send it back for a refund, I started to ask what about all the trouble, oil, trans fluid I will lose but I'll just try and find something of quality. any idea's anyone------Richie

  2. #2
    BigTruckDriver is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Friends dont let friends drive fords!

  3. #3
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    any chromed pan is a joke, they rust, use the return for aluminum pans whail you can.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

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  4. #4
    Richie is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    the pans I have are polished aluminum, I thought Chrome might be easier to keek clean and polish-----Richie

  5. #5
    Mike P's Avatar
    Mike P is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Chances are anything else you find will also come from overseas. If you really like the style of the parts, I would suggest that you take them to a chrome shop and have them redone to a better quality.

  6. #6
    76GMC1500 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Aluminum forms a thick layer of oxidation that protects its finish. But, if that layer becomes damaged, it has to be buffed off and allowed to reform again. The layer is extremely hard and difficult to remove. It can be done with steel wool or wet sanding with a 320-400 grit paper. Follow it up with some white rouge buffing compound. One of the advantages of aluminum is that it is not a coating, no matter what happens to it, you can buff it back to shiny again. It just takes some work.

    If you decide to get a pan chromed at a shop, don't take that Chinese pan in. Do yourself a favor and buy a good thick one from Milodon, buff it's coating off, and get that pan chromed. Milodon pans are much thicker than a cheapo pan and they magically carry an extra quart of oil even though the pan looks and fits the same as stock.

  7. #7
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    Originally posted by Matt167
    any chromed pan is a joke, they rust, use the return for aluminum pans whail you can.
    that goes the same for valve covers to. like a fool I have purchased many engine chrome kits, with the thin chrome plated valve covers, and they are a booger to get a good seal on an engine.

    the major downside to chrome is it will need polishing quite often, to keep it from dulling and piting. if I were to take a picture right now of my car's engine you would see what happens when it's left unpolished for a few months.
    Destroy your enemy by making him your friend. - Abraham Lincoln

  8. #8
    33delivery's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

     



    couple questions if I may? who would be a good vendor for a matching set of polished aluminum pans for SBC,700R4 and flywheel cover? Also have any of you come across a "pewter" color for engine and trans that looks good with billet accessories, aluminum headers and polished TPI? Body and chassis are chrome yellow so I`m not sure about a yellow block and trans.Looking forward to any ideas you guys might have, so a belated Happy New Year and thanks in advance for the advice

    brian

  9. #9
    Mike P's Avatar
    Mike P is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I might have be misunderstanding what your looking for, or the look your trying to acheive but a pewter or any other grey/silver color might not necessarly work well with all the other silver/shiney you will have under there.

    Just my opinion, but too much of the same color tends to "blur" everything. Using contrasting colors, such as the yellow block with the billet accessories will help the detail stand out better. Silver/natural on the tranny would likely work well because it would contrast with a different colored block and the underside of the car.

    Just my opinion

  10. #10
    33delivery's Avatar
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    Thanks Mike. maybe I should get the whole scheme out, trying to get a color scheme for my 33 including block,trans ,driveshaft and Ford 9" pumpkin here ,is what I have
    - aluminum rad c/w aluminum condensor
    - electric fan c/w chrome cage
    -polished TPI
    - billet accesories
    -aluminum shory headers
    -chrome starter,water pump
    -complete SS bolt kit "allen" button on the TPI
    - polished SS exhaust
    - Coolflex rad hoses
    -braided AC and heat hoses-
    - braided e-brake cables + braided speedo cable + braided lines to the trans cooler (black) c/w electric fan
    -all the bolts and rod ends on the chassis are chromed including the coil overs
    -hopefully I can find some nice aluminum pans
    the chassis is chrome yellow and the body will be also, so do you think I should stay body color? or block yellow,trans silver? what about driveshaft and pumpkin? grateful for any advice

  11. #11
    33delivery's Avatar
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    trying to show image
    Attached Images

  12. #12
    33delivery's Avatar
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    sorry about the size and the mirror image,it got away from me hehehehe

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