The key to a good floor coating is the prep work. After the concrete has properly cured you will need to make a surface cut with a Blast-trac or something similar like a stone grinder. This will strip off just the slick surface so the coating will adhere better.

Under no circumstances should you ever use muratic acid (or any acidic cleaner) to prep a concrete floor for a coating. If you don't get 100% of it neutralized it will keep on etching (read as breaking down) the concrete. Trisodium Phosphate will do a better job of degreasing old concrete without requiring a neutralizing agent before flushing with water. Basically if you see someone heading to your new concrete floor with muratic acid, hit them with a large stick until they go away.

As to the coating type, I've had the best luck with Porter and Carboline for 2 part epoxies. You can either go with a self leveling epoxy that is applied with a notched squeegee for a slick smooth finish or an ultrathane applied with a short nap roller if you are mixing in a non-skid abrasive.

Verify what safety equipment you need. Most of the time a simple cartridge filter breather and gloves are enough. Don't be suprised if the fumes ruin your sneakers too.

With a two part floor coating, mix each gallon as you go, not all at the same time. Some of these floor epoxies have an extremely short pot life before they start setting up (some under 15 minutes). Do it this way for safety reasons also. I've seen gallon cans of epoxy have their labels catch on fire from the heat generated by the chemical reaction.