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Thread: how to reset brake light valve
          
   
   

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  1. #6
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jan 2004
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '51 Chevy Fleetline and a Ratrod project
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    Originally posted by robot
    Using a disc/drum master cylinder on a drum/drum system is dangerous. The disc side moves more fluid volume than is needed to properly activate the drums.....regardless of the residual valve. This may be why you get the unbalance signal

    From the 911Brakes web site:

    MASTER TYPE DESCRIPTION
    DRUM / DRUM A drum / drum master is designed to deliver fluid pressure and volume to the front and the rear of a braking system in equal proportions. Drum brakes will require less fluid and pressure than disc brakes. Typically a drum brake master will be smaller than a disc master and the fluid reservoir chambers will be equal in size. Since drum brakes require the use of residual pressure valves the original drum master cylinders had residual valves built into the outlets. Later model aftermarket units do not have these valves and they must be installed in the lines externally. Failure to incorporate residual valves will cause spongy brakes.

    Generally speaking it's not a good idea to use a drum brake master for disc brakes since the amount of fluid the cylinder pushes will not be sufficient.

    DISC / DRUM A disc / drum master is designed to push more fluid volume to the front disc brakes since disc brakes require more volume than drum brakes. Generally speaking a disc / drum master will have one fluid reservoir larger than the other.This is because the disc brake pads wear faster than the drum shoes and the fluid reservoir will drop faster. Original disc / drum masters had a built in residual pressure valve to the rear drum brakes only.

    Never reverse the outlets on a disc / drum master. Doing this will cause the front disc brakes to drag excessively from the residual pressure valve.
    I'll be changing to disc front brakes in the future ( granada swap probably, then I'll replace the old RPV with a 2psi RPV designated for discs). It will make the front brakes lock a little quicker, but when you do the math in relation to pascals law, if you put 50 PSI of preassure on the pedal and move 2", than there will be 100 PSI exzerted on the master cyl ( 1" bore, make it easy ) , which then if it goes to a caliper, the pistion ( say 3" ) will exzert 300 PSI but only move 1/3", in a wheel cyl ( 1" bore ), will exzert 100 pounds, and move 1/2" ( in my auto class, I'm learning brakes now, so I have to know all this stuff ) . they were coming on after the rears locked up b4 I put the RPV in. The bore size in my new master is the same as the old. Thanks for the info.
    Last edited by Matt167; 01-23-2006 at 04:43 PM.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

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